I am thinking out loud here and would appreciate input.

My 2012 V8 recently had my original alternator fail. It was a Denso 180Watt with the LR logo / sticker on it.

My local auto store had a replacement 150 Watt alternator made AC Delco Gold (formerly Pro) 334-3031 19390329 which was refurbished and certified.

I was stranded and it was all they had that was compatible.

I charged up the original battery and was able to swap the alternators.

About a month and a half later, my dash lights up with charging system error and I died on the road.

Luckily I was able to grab a new battery a new battery (proper size and CCA) in under an hour and a half from where I stalled. Everything checked out and I was back off to the races.

That was last week.

Yesterday (a week later) I fire it up and start getting charging errors again… it died… I check relays under the hood and one was loose for the alternator R6.

i re-seated it and ensured all other relays and fuses were seated well.

I used my portable Noco booster pack to boost the vehicle and it fired up. No more battery signs, lights dimming, dead consoles, etc…

I drove it home and put the heat on as it is 4° Celsius (39.2° F) outside and I was a bit annoyed at being in the cold for quite a while.

With the heater on I started smelling burning plastic/wires.

Once parked I could smell it from inside the cabin and outside under the hood.

Besides being a rebuilt alternator, is the 150Watts not enough for the LR4? Once I check the voltages I will know for sure, but what educated guesses would you have for me? Is there anything else I should be checking at this point as well.

The picture below shows the alternators.





Thank you

 

Still having issues and can not seem to track down the issue except for an error code of P0A1A-88 generator control module.

 

So you went with a rebuilt piece that has a lower total output than the factory unit and you are wondering why you are having issues??? Sorry if this sounds snarky but are you serious!

 

When I had my LR4, I had issues with my alternator shortly before I got rid of it. I had a similar issue to what you are having and my indy mechanic replaced the alternator with an OEM Denso unit, and afterwards it still had charging issues. Traced the problem to a bad battery terminal. Replaced that and all was good. I would always use OEM parts and never go aftermarket, especially on a var like an LR4.

 

This forum is meant to be a place for fellow LR owners to help one another. We are all here to raise one another up, to help those with LR challenges, and with camaraderie.

Your reply clearly demonstrates your total and complete understanding of that…


You are a muppet!

 

Totally get it. Unfortunately I was in a situation whereby I needed an alternator and this was the cross-referenced part number from the state / provincial auto parts store known as Lordco.

From what I have read in a few other forums even people with OEM replacement batteries and OEM Alternators had similar issues and traced it to either a bad terminal wire or the alternator plug being improperly seated.

There is also a TSB on the code I mentioned from Land Rover.

 

Cool, I love Muppets.
But to your issue and my comment. You stated the issue and how it started. You replaced your alternator with a rebuilt off brand that is clearly not at the same output as the original. Then you begin to have electrical issues. You have not, as far as I can read, replaced the alternator with, at the least, one at the manufactures output. Yet you still ask questions as to what may be wrong...... Start with the original issue before you run into more issues and further damage. These vehicles are extremely sensitive in the electrical department. Instead of trouble shooting "other" possibilities-fix the original issue. You have all the information you need to begin to truly problem solve your issue.... yet, you ask for what else may be the issue... ITS YOUR ALTERNATOR. Hence my asking if you're are serious. Stop looking for something else that is being caused by the original issue. Then... if you still have other issues you can start a deeper set of diagnostics. It's possible you are or have done damage by running an underpowered alternator and by asking too much of the electrical system. But hey I'm just a muppet!

 

Factory spec 180 isn't enough either...

Regardless re-man units are typically genuine bodies with the important bits replaced with inferior aftermarket parts such as pulley, stators, brushes etc. In a bind I'd do the same but would replace it with genuine as soon as I could. JLR vehicles are very sensitive to electrical issues.