Buying an LR4
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2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Asheville, NC
Buying an LR4
Hello! I've been researching LR4s for a bit now, and trying to narrow it down to a preferred model/year. Currently thinking that's a 2012 or 2013 model. Couple of things that I'm concerned/confused about and was hoping someone could clear up or point me to if it's already documented.
- Timing chain guides. This appears to be the biggest issue to look out for. I've read that this was fixed/addressed in late-2012... is that correct and if so, after what date? If buying one manufactured prior to the fix, it sounds like regular maintenance/oil changes are to prolonging this. Is there a typical mileage point in which these begin to fail?
- While I suspect the info/nav systems on all of these to be quite dated now, I've read there was an updated version in 2012 or 2013? Does that apply to all or was that a late model change too? Any way to tell the difference?
- Any other definitive guides out there for a first-time LR4 buyer?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Mar 2020
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Justin:
A few thoughts from me and a few cut and pasted from another thread:
1. Timing chain guides. If buying one manufactured prior to the fix, it sounds like regular maintenance/oil changes are to prolonging this. Is there a typical mileage point in which these begin to fail?
i have a 2011 LR4 which I bought at 29k miles as CPO. The mileage is now 145K miles. IT IS LISTED FOR SALE ON THIS MARKETPLACE (full disclosure). I have very consistently changed the oil with full synthetic every 5K miles. I have driven the vehicle very sedately. The timing chain guide noise first showed up at 75K and has not worsened. No faults have ever been thrown. I converted to 0w-20 weight from 5w-20 oil at 90K miles -- that helped. The vehicle was purchased in Wisconsin (cold weather) then moved to Connecticut, Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina. Every move to a warmer climate quieted the noise. For the last 35K miles or so the noise has almost disappeared (happily).
Personally, I think the way the vehicle is driven makes a BIG difference. My theory is that if the vehicle is driven sedately, the load on the guide tensioner is much less and the aluminum head / seat of the tensioner is not deformed as much. Combine that with better oil flow at start up and warmer temperatures, and the original aluminum design is tolerable. I do not personally think the 2012 design change "fixed" the fundamental challenge. But, maybe the design change helped it by shifting from aluminum to some other material in the tensioners.
I also have a 2013 LR4 with 55K miles and the HD package which I purchased with 40K miles on it. The oil was changed with full synthetic every 5K miles with 5W-20 and run in a cold climate. It is driven more aggressively (my spouse has a lead foot) and I have converted the oil to 0W-20. The timing chain guide noise is present, but is not worrisome (yet?).
2. Info/Nav systems. While I suspect the info/nav systems on all of these to be quite dated now, I've read there was an updated version in 2012 or 2013?
The info/nav systems on my 2011 and 2013 are the same -- and both are awful. Practically unusable. Worthless.
3. Any other definitive guides out there for a first-time LR4 buyer? Yes, I suggest you give a little study to the coolant system.
The V8 features plastic cross-over piping at the rear and front of the engine which are very hard to access and which have a history of corroding from the inside out and failing catastrophically, without warning, causing a nearly immediate, full engine failure. I learned about it in time, and went ahead and paid the $3K necessary to source and change all the coolant pipes and water pump and all the belts on my 2011, late last year. This is something you will definitely want to understand and look for the receipts as evidence of repair.
4. Whichever year LR4 you choose, you will want to prefer the HD package if you desire to go seriously off-road. In the 2010-2013 (V8) model, HD gives you the rear locking diff and a full size spare, and in the 2014-2016 (SCV6) models it gives you the rear locking diff, full size spare, center locking diff, and low range gearing. Without the HD package, the 2014-2016 cars have no low range gearing and only a torsion-type limited slip center diff (not really suitable off-road).
Finding a 2014-2016 with low range and the rear locker isn't as difficult as some make it out to be. If you need the rear locker it is easier to find one in the 2014-2016 than in 2010-2013 because if it has rock crawl it'll have the locker and the two speed transfer case, where as in the 2013 and earlier rock crawl could be included with or without the locker.
Fortunately, If you purchase a V8 (2010-2013) model without the locking rear differential, there are now available air lockers for both the front and rear you can add. These took quite a few years to arrive and it is a good time to finally have access to them.
5. The tow hitch receiver and related gear, including the wire harness did not come standard. It is a relatively easy add, but you will want to check that you have that capability.
6. The 19" standard wheel on the LR4 is a challenge, as you cannot find good off-road tires at this size. You will need to convert to 18" wheels, there's a cost worth considering associated with that -- some creative grinding on the brake calipers is necessary. Or use 20" wheels, where better tire choices are available.
There really is nothing else like these trucks out there. Look for something with an impeccable service history, and if that means you have to ship it to get it, it's worth it.
Good luck!
A few thoughts from me and a few cut and pasted from another thread:
1. Timing chain guides. If buying one manufactured prior to the fix, it sounds like regular maintenance/oil changes are to prolonging this. Is there a typical mileage point in which these begin to fail?
i have a 2011 LR4 which I bought at 29k miles as CPO. The mileage is now 145K miles. IT IS LISTED FOR SALE ON THIS MARKETPLACE (full disclosure). I have very consistently changed the oil with full synthetic every 5K miles. I have driven the vehicle very sedately. The timing chain guide noise first showed up at 75K and has not worsened. No faults have ever been thrown. I converted to 0w-20 weight from 5w-20 oil at 90K miles -- that helped. The vehicle was purchased in Wisconsin (cold weather) then moved to Connecticut, Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina. Every move to a warmer climate quieted the noise. For the last 35K miles or so the noise has almost disappeared (happily).
Personally, I think the way the vehicle is driven makes a BIG difference. My theory is that if the vehicle is driven sedately, the load on the guide tensioner is much less and the aluminum head / seat of the tensioner is not deformed as much. Combine that with better oil flow at start up and warmer temperatures, and the original aluminum design is tolerable. I do not personally think the 2012 design change "fixed" the fundamental challenge. But, maybe the design change helped it by shifting from aluminum to some other material in the tensioners.
I also have a 2013 LR4 with 55K miles and the HD package which I purchased with 40K miles on it. The oil was changed with full synthetic every 5K miles with 5W-20 and run in a cold climate. It is driven more aggressively (my spouse has a lead foot) and I have converted the oil to 0W-20. The timing chain guide noise is present, but is not worrisome (yet?).
2. Info/Nav systems. While I suspect the info/nav systems on all of these to be quite dated now, I've read there was an updated version in 2012 or 2013?
The info/nav systems on my 2011 and 2013 are the same -- and both are awful. Practically unusable. Worthless.
3. Any other definitive guides out there for a first-time LR4 buyer? Yes, I suggest you give a little study to the coolant system.
The V8 features plastic cross-over piping at the rear and front of the engine which are very hard to access and which have a history of corroding from the inside out and failing catastrophically, without warning, causing a nearly immediate, full engine failure. I learned about it in time, and went ahead and paid the $3K necessary to source and change all the coolant pipes and water pump and all the belts on my 2011, late last year. This is something you will definitely want to understand and look for the receipts as evidence of repair.
4. Whichever year LR4 you choose, you will want to prefer the HD package if you desire to go seriously off-road. In the 2010-2013 (V8) model, HD gives you the rear locking diff and a full size spare, and in the 2014-2016 (SCV6) models it gives you the rear locking diff, full size spare, center locking diff, and low range gearing. Without the HD package, the 2014-2016 cars have no low range gearing and only a torsion-type limited slip center diff (not really suitable off-road).
Finding a 2014-2016 with low range and the rear locker isn't as difficult as some make it out to be. If you need the rear locker it is easier to find one in the 2014-2016 than in 2010-2013 because if it has rock crawl it'll have the locker and the two speed transfer case, where as in the 2013 and earlier rock crawl could be included with or without the locker.
Fortunately, If you purchase a V8 (2010-2013) model without the locking rear differential, there are now available air lockers for both the front and rear you can add. These took quite a few years to arrive and it is a good time to finally have access to them.
5. The tow hitch receiver and related gear, including the wire harness did not come standard. It is a relatively easy add, but you will want to check that you have that capability.
6. The 19" standard wheel on the LR4 is a challenge, as you cannot find good off-road tires at this size. You will need to convert to 18" wheels, there's a cost worth considering associated with that -- some creative grinding on the brake calipers is necessary. Or use 20" wheels, where better tire choices are available.
There really is nothing else like these trucks out there. Look for something with an impeccable service history, and if that means you have to ship it to get it, it's worth it.
Good luck!
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