I see a lot of engine failures with LR4’s here in the USA, yet others are driving them across deserts & into blizzards.

Discussing the 5.0 V8 available in the USA. I see timing chain guide issues. Lots of them.

Are these reliable? Are they not?

Would I be an idiot to trade a 2019 TRD Sequoia for one?

 

You might unless you’re interested in LRs somehow. The youngest LR4 V8 is from first half of 2013 (still MY12) and the oldest from 2010. Do you have a rational reason moving from a 4 year old vehicle to a 9 - 12 year old vehicle?

Between 2010 and 2012 LR used timing chain guides that, well, could have been better and will need replacing at some point. There is a technical service bulletin about it. Replacement cost is significant, most of it labor.

Also, as usual, you hear more about the problem vehicles than the ones that simply work. In Europe with the 3.0 liter TDV6/SDV6 engine all you hear is snapped crankshafts, blown turbos, etc.

Anyway, they’re great if you have a good one and you’ll certainly learn to tinker with stuff if you’re DIY or want to become one.

 

While I wait for JLR to sort out supply chain issues & reliability concerns on the new Defender 110 I’d like to drop my $860 car note.

Also gives us a chance to familiarize myself with LR ergo, aftermarket, etc.

I subscribed to this board 10 years ago and I’ve wanted a LR since.

 

All the problems are pretty well laid out in the forums. Check out landroverworld.org as well. 2012 and earlier, the big one is timing chains, so try to find one that has had the timing chains replaced or factor that repair into the price. On all LR4s, you should replace the plastic coolant pipes about every 50K-75K. This is not such a big job on the V8 (intake manifold needs to come off), but for the V6 the supercharger has to come off, which makes it more of a PITA, but still doable for the DIY mechanic. Do not buy one that has a recent history of overheating. If it overheated years ago, was repaired, and ran fine since, that’s probably fine.

Control arm bushings - it’s a heavy truck, so these will show wear at about 60K-100K depending on how its been used (off roading will wear them out quicker).
Air suspension - you’ll start to see compressors go around 100K I think, air struts sometime after that I believe.
Electrical problems - this car is quite complex on the electrical side. It’s sensitive to low batteries/bad alternators/bad earth straps, and the battery monitoring system will start to shut down non-essential services as voltages drop, which can throw a lot of weird codes. Also, sunroof drain leaks can create a lot of moisture near the central junction box and other modules under passenger glove box area, creating problems.

If you stay on top of things, read the forums, and do some work yourself, they can be great cars. They have a unique look, and there is nothing out there with the off road chops that drives as well on-road (in my opinion). Don’t rule out the V6 if you want to find a lower mileage car. It has plenty of power and great 8 speed trans, just more of a PITA to service some things because of the supercharger and charge air cooler on top of engine. But no timing chain issues to speak of. Also, be aware that not all the cars have low range gearing. 2013 and earlier, I believe low range was standard, but locking diffs require HD package. 2014-2016, you need HD package to get both low range and locking diffs.

 

After 1 year in, I’ve gotten to drive the LR4 for about 4 months. I spent enough on it to buy a decent used Sequoia or Lexus GX.

Off-road the LR4 is a beast. But, I won’t ever take it offroad BC I’m afraid it’ll breakdown. Speaking of which, it’s been towed 4 times in my year of ownership.

if you’re looking for a DD or reliable transportation bypass the LR4!

Mine’s up for sale, getting a GX460

 

And my new to me LR 4 is as dependable as she gets. go figure.