Just noticed the CV boot is detached at the wheel end, no grease in there, clamp missing.

Car has 100k miles.

Instead of getting boot replacement kit, does it make sense to replace entire axle assembly with this many miles? Seems like labor cost would be similar if the shop has to take axle off anyway (unless they have the fancy CV expansion too for replacing with axle on).

How far can I drive like this to get to shop?

Strange coincidence, just had this in dealer for repairs including brake fluid replacement, rotate tires, thermostat, vacuum pump. You would think they would have noticed this.

 

Did a little research… the Indy shop I use would have to take the axel off to repair, so am thinking of just replacing whole axel.

Should I do both front axels while at it?

Do I need to get OEM? Any recommended after market parts?

thanks!

 

The general rule is that if a boot is torn then it is best to replace the axle or axle end because debris could have gotten in and done some damage. Especially if it has been open long enough for the grease to be gone. CV axles are pretty easy to rebuild and I am even doing a couple this weekend. They are pretty easy to swap too. So if you are having a shop do the work, you need to decide which method may be cheaper. A new OEM/GKN outside joint is about $150 USD shipped for you. A shop will mark that up. A whole new shaft is probably closer to $500 for GKN. If you go with a Land Rover green oval sticker box then a new shaft is probably closer to a grand. GKN is the OEM for LR, you can even find the logo on the small end of the boots. So I tend to avoid paying for a green sticker and go with GKN.

With all that said, what do you do with the Rover and how long do you plan to keep it? Aftermarket joints are pretty cheap and even entire aftermarket shafts can be really, really cheap. Like $60 USD cheap for a whole one. I myself would not go aftermarket since I off-road and such and I plan to keep the Rover a long time. And there is zero reason to replace both, so do not fall for a shop saying you should. Generally the only things replaced in pairs on the front end are the struts, wheel bearings and sway bar link ends and the last two I mentioned are not even a requirement just good practice.

 

Thanks for the info, very helpful.

A. Brit has the axel assembly, but not for my model year, waiting to hear back from them.

I’ve had a knocking sound on hard turns for several years, thought it was oversized tire rub. Could the boot have been bad this whole time causing the knock?

 

LR3, LR4 and Sport of smilier years are interchangeable CVs. AB will get you sorted out, very helpful folk.

Usually a bad outer CV that is on the way to failure sounds more like clicking than knocking per say. And usually that does not go on for years. Hard to say really.

 

Does anyone know the part number on the axel shaft seal for the 2016 LR4HSE front left? Having trouble finding online, and am assuming I should put a new seal on when I get the axel assembly replaced.

Maybe LR158113?

 

It looks like it will work based on a few sites like FCP Euro. All four are the same seal for front/rear and left/rigth. I just doubled checked in my LR3 catalogue, the reference number for all four is TZB500050. I tend to get Corteco brand, no particular reason. I also get BMW part: 31508743675 or 33107505601 (same part, different numbers) - Only because they can sometimes be cheaper under that part number versus LR but they are physically the same. Either way, if you are spending more than $15 per seal you are spending too much.

Oh, and yes a new seal is a good ideal. I have tow new seals waiting for when I put mine in.

 

Having trouble finding the correct front left axel assembly. A. Brit lists the LR072067 but not for the later LR4 model years. Other sites say that part fits 2016. The fellow at A. Brit was checking into it but have not heard back.

Does anyone know correct part number for front left axel assembly for 2016 LR4?

 

Don't get me started.... actually I did start a thread about that in the LR3 forum. The T5/L319 platform use pretty much the same axles. So the LR3/4 and Sport for similar years. There was *maybe* some early years on the LR3 that used non-HD axles, but from what I read the fronts all got moves to HD stay early one with only the rears having a version for locking diff or not.

So by now, any new front driver axle will work just fine, they are interchangeable and it seems that most part numbers are there simply as place holders for models/years. Like one part number for the LR3, another for LR4 and one for sport - even though the part is the same. Enter the OEM like GKN, which will in fact have just one part number for them and they make em.

As for LR072067, that is the part number you can certainly use. That is a driver (left) front axle for an LR3 or 4. It is an HD axle and will match was it removed exactly.

 

Thanks, really appreciate it. A. Brit rep said he thought the axel changed in later LR4 years due to different transmission, but he wasn’t sure and never got back to me,

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