ABS Fault
Stability Control not Available
HDC not Available
EBD Fault
Parking break fault
Emergency Brake Assist not Available
Suspension Fault Max Speed 30
Transmission Fault
Terrain Response Special Programs not Available
Fuel Gauge reads zero
Temp reads zero
Tach works sometimes
Speedo works sometimes


The kicker. Everything works, sometimes. On occasion it airs up and does what it's supposed to. 90% of the time it's all the bells on the dash right from start up and wont even shift to drive. Have to shut it off and turn it back on again, the faults remain but that gets it to shift, and even that's about 50% successful. I'm in Michigan, in BFE about 300mi from the nearest dealer, and I genuinely do not want to bend over and bring it there, but I'm out of ideas and resources.

Brand new Battery a week ago
Runs like a top
Timing chain kit installed just before I bought it.
Drove it 6 hours home the day I bought it no issues.
drove it daily for a few weeks no issues and now all this.

 

Make certain the battery's fully charged, even a new one may not have the proper voltage above 12.6. Then I'd start looking at harnesses or alternator.

 

check ground connections from batt to harness to engine etc.

 

Yes, these two comments are in fact standard operating procedure at JLR when a number of non-related components complain, as in your case. I concur, Its a “insufficient voltage” issue.
Following the battery check, it may be time for the complete system reset… easily done:
Disconnect both leads on the battery.
Touch the leads together.
Reconnect to battery.
Turn on ignition, wait for all dings and chimes to stop.
Start the engine.
Go for a long, spirited drive so that the ecm may relearn your driving habits.

Cheers

 

No dice on the "reset" accomplishing anything.
Also the problems are no longer intermittent. Suspension has been completely aired out since the origional post. Everything listed is constant aside from the EBD, transmission fault, and adjacent shifting issues where its stuck in the gear which the fault occurred. Turning off and turning back on again helps it to shift sometimes. Other times you try this and you're just stuck in 1st gear. My favorite is when it will not immediately restart until you sit there for a few minutes. Checked fender well grounds. Checked Positive connection at alternator. Cleaned battery cables and terminals. All clean and tight I'll have it on a lift tomorrow to really look things over from underneath. Any pointers on specific connections to chase is greatly appreciated. e.g. common points for can communication wiring issues or grounds that you might miss if you didn't know where they were. New Alternator should be here tomorrow as well. Don't want to just throw parts at it but from everything I read a new battery and alternator sounds like a great place to start before blaming the IP dash module or other control units.

 

Please report the “resting” voltage on your battery.

 

Have you monitored voltage whilst the vehicle's idling? Despite main dealer insisting the alternator was fine and a faulty module or the newly fitted battery was to blame, the voltage on mine varied anywhere from 11 volts to 17 volts. I replaced the alternator myself, easy enough to do and ALL faults and other issues vanished.

 

Before alternator resting 11.4 running 12.5
After alternator resting 12.5 running 14.7
SO good news it needed an alternator.
bad news it's still fault city. No improvement other than voltage.

 

Something we see frequently on the forums is water ingress into the passenger side footwell from a faulty sunroof drain. The leak can drench the under-dash junction box/body control module and cause corrosion in the connections under the passenger seat. Causes lots of strange faults. Another situation with a ton of faults ended up being rodent damage to the wiring harness leading from behind/below the main battery through the firewall into the passenger side junction box/bcm.

Your batt/charging voltages now look perfect, but I’d double check that battery after sitting overnight. Also maybe run the max/min function on your multimeter and check the min voltage on cranking. Should be above 9v.

 

After a few weeks of bouncing on zero suspension I'm thoroughly considering the Coil conversion rather than continuing to chase the gremlin. There does not appear to be any water intrusion in the module behind the glove box or under seat.
All connectors I could find under the vehicle appear clean and well connected without corrosion. Firewall wiring transition seems fine as well.
I threw a new suspension relay in the under hood electrical box just to rule that out as well.

Current Status Still no fuel gauge, Terrain response special programs not available, and suspension fault max speed 30. amber "BRAKE" light is on the tach side of the cluster. Upon start up the height control up arrow and center line flashes on for a second then goes dark. After that all the terrain response options illuminate at the same time and all remain on.

Since the alternator none of the other issues have returned but all 4 height sensors show they are not communicating and does not attempt to lift at all. The frost is coming out of the ground here and the roads are atrocious, not the best time to be running aired completely out.
Is it possible I need to jack it up manually then disconnect the battery to get the suspension to reset? Something like, aired completely out, the height sensors are beyond whatever min/max the module is comfortable to start from?
Does anyone know if the xlifter controller piggy backs existing height control system or bypasses it completely?