Engine Fault Codes
#1
Engine Fault Codes
Just finished a head gasket and timing chain job on my 2010 LR4, and got a couple codes when I fired it back up. Apparently she needs coolant temp sensors now, whatever. But I'm confused by a P0662 and P0562.
The service manual just says
P0662 : Manifold Valve Output Drive 1 : Short Circuit to Battery
and doesn't even list P0526 but my code scanner says "Fan Speed Sensor Ckt"
Any thoughts on where to start with these would be a huge help, cuz I got nothin' right now.
Thanks!
The service manual just says
P0662 : Manifold Valve Output Drive 1 : Short Circuit to Battery
and doesn't even list P0526 but my code scanner says "Fan Speed Sensor Ckt"
Any thoughts on where to start with these would be a huge help, cuz I got nothin' right now.
Thanks!
#6
There is one temp sensor on the back side of the crossover pipe between the two heads on the back side of the engine (above trans) - won’t leak coolant too terrible bad when you take it out. The other is on the coolant hose below the thermostat - behind the fan, follow the wiring cuz it the only wiring that come from the top of the engine and plunges straight down the front of the engine. This one will leak a lot of coolant. Imagine that scene from Raiders of the Lost Ark where Indie quickly swaps the gold idol for the bag of sand - it will be like that except with temp sensors.
the sensors themselves have a little tab on them that you’ll pull back on and they twist out a quarter or third turn
the sensors themselves have a little tab on them that you’ll pull back on and they twist out a quarter or third turn
Last edited by SC Rover; 09-12-2022 at 10:08 PM.
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DallasLoneStar (09-12-2022)
#7
#8
If you’re getting a fault code, it should tell you bank one or bank two - unfortunately, I never figured out which was which and just replaced both.
Start with the front cuz it’s easier and go from there I guess…
You can get to the back one just by removing the pretty noise cover on top, but it sucks and your get some annoying scratches on your forearms reaching back there. If you look behind the air plenum (or SC if SCV6…) you’ll see a bundle of wiring and below that is crossover tube. Sensor is on the back side of that closer to the passenger side of the vehicle before the tube turns and plunges down into the head connection. .
Start with the front cuz it’s easier and go from there I guess…
You can get to the back one just by removing the pretty noise cover on top, but it sucks and your get some annoying scratches on your forearms reaching back there. If you look behind the air plenum (or SC if SCV6…) you’ll see a bundle of wiring and below that is crossover tube. Sensor is on the back side of that closer to the passenger side of the vehicle before the tube turns and plunges down into the head connection. .
#9
#10
Yes, both sensors are the same part.
See attached pic. The tab opposite the connector will pull back away from the business end of the sensor, then you’ll twist (standard right hand thread) a quarter turn and pull the sensor straight out. If you look about halfway between the lock tab and the connector, you can see a little box channel that acts as the female thread.
Pay attention to the connector orientation as it’s seated now, and where it stops when you twist it to remove. There is only one way that this sensor can be installed, and trying to figure out that orientation with fluid pouring out can throw your focus.
The following users liked this post:
DallasLoneStar (09-14-2022)
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