LR4 Antifreeze Slow Leak Help
#1
LR4 Antifreeze Slow Leak Help
I have a 2011 LR4 HSE with a slow antifreeze leak. It has been going on since the summer and I just occasionally top it off. I was at the dealership for a state inspection and they diagnosed it as "antifreeze seeping in the valley of the block" and gave me a repair quote of $1800. We have a friend who is a Land Rover enthusiast (has a Defender, LR3 and Range Rover) who is trying to help us fix it and save the money. There appears to be leak at this part right here and I was hoping someone might be able to help me identify the part? It is the round thing on the bottom where the seal is -- with the bolts on the right - the crack that meets the bottom where the seal is leaking. I have attached some pics and hope this helps. Any help anyone could provide a novice would be greatly appreciated!
#2
The item in the picture is the Vacuum Pump, which has no coolant going through it. You see coolant there, because it is leaking higher and running down the front of the block.
It could be a water pump leaking, it could be the coolant flange under the intake or it could be one of the hoses in that area. You just have to remove components to gain access for confirmation.
If I were you however, I would replace all the potential leak points in one shot, because if it isn't leaking now, it will and you don't want to get caught off guard. These engines can overheat quickly.
It could be a water pump leaking, it could be the coolant flange under the intake or it could be one of the hoses in that area. You just have to remove components to gain access for confirmation.
If I were you however, I would replace all the potential leak points in one shot, because if it isn't leaking now, it will and you don't want to get caught off guard. These engines can overheat quickly.
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guy (10-08-2023)
#3
I have a 2013 LR4 with just over 70k miles on it. When I got it at the beginning of the year I had a slow coolant leak that ended up being the rear crossover tube. It was seeping down the back of the engine and transmission. Since the intake manifold needs to come off, I replaced the front crossover tube as well. Recently I have been smelling the sweet smell of antifreeze and had to top off my coolant expansion tank and just found my radiator is now seeping on the passenger side (where the plastic and aluminum come together). May want to take a peek there as well.
#4
One more thing, I noticed on something else from the dealership, it says the coolant in seeping from the "coolant manifold pipe" in the valley of the block. Would this be the front crossover pipe or coolant flange under the intake? Would it be best to just order the pump and rear/front crossover pipes and replace them all at the same time?
#5
I would suggest yes. I just picked up a 2010 HSE that had a coolant leak. Replaced the water pump myself today using the sticky in this forum as a guide. If it’s still leaking, I’ll remove the intake and replace the crossover pipes. Worth noting that my water pump had been done at least once before, I know this because I found an old o-ring and gasket in the valley behind the pump.
#6
#7
Hello-I am dealing with a coolant leak. Just to be clear what are ALL the potential leak points that you recommend changing?
The item in the picture is the Vacuum Pump, which has no coolant going through it. You see coolant there, because it is leaking higher and running down the front of the block.
It could be a water pump leaking, it could be the coolant flange under the intake or it could be one of the hoses in that area. You just have to remove components to gain access for confirmation.
If I were you however, I would replace all the potential leak points in one shot, because if it isn't leaking now, it will and you don't want to get caught off guard. These engines can overheat quickly.
It could be a water pump leaking, it could be the coolant flange under the intake or it could be one of the hoses in that area. You just have to remove components to gain access for confirmation.
If I were you however, I would replace all the potential leak points in one shot, because if it isn't leaking now, it will and you don't want to get caught off guard. These engines can overheat quickly.
#8
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