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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 08:45 AM
  #11  
Jagfixer's Avatar
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From: Millstadt, IL
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I replaced just the pads and wear sensors at 24K on my 2011. I used the OEM TRW pads and will do pads and rotors on next change. Be aware and have your VIN with you as the later LR4 takes different front pads. Well satisfied with only pad change and price with pads and sensors doing it myself was right at $300.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 10:54 AM
  #12  
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Overlanding
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From: Palm Harbor FL
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I had a about 10 k on the vehicle with the new rotors and pads. All was good. Stopping distances and brake pedal feel all felt about stock. It may have been a little bit better stopping but that may be a bit of my ego stepping in and not the different brake setup. All was good and an easy job

I have sold it recently and we will see what the next Rover is....



Originally Posted by orim181
Hi,

Just wondering if you could provide another quick update on how those Raybestos are doing. I've been debating whether to get them (Part#PGD1479M for front pads and #980526 for front rotors) or get the OEM TRWs for nearly the same price, for a 2010 LR4 HSE.

Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 10:32 PM
  #13  
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Thank you for that information! I really appreciate it.
Originally Posted by Jagfixer
I replaced just the pads and wear sensors at 24K on my 2011. I used the OEM TRW pads and will do pads and rotors on next change. Be aware and have your VIN with you as the later LR4 takes different front pads. Well satisfied with only pad change and price with pads and sensors doing it myself was right at $300.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 10:33 PM
  #14  
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Thank you very much for the update!
Originally Posted by Stepsride
I had a about 10 k on the vehicle with the new rotors and pads. All was good. Stopping distances and brake pedal feel all felt about stock. It may have been a little bit better stopping but that may be a bit of my ego stepping in and not the different brake setup. All was good and an easy job

I have sold it recently and we will see what the next Rover is....
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 07:50 PM
  #15  
ashmount4's Avatar
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Severance, Colorado
Default Rotor, pads, and tires

12 LR4 18k, just put on 255-55-19 Duratrac and EBC stage 8 hd pads and rotors, orange. Wonderful setup, great breaking and the tires while aggressive perform better than expected in all conditions.
 

Last edited by ashmount4; Nov 13, 2015 at 07:52 PM. Reason: Adding
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 07:54 PM
  #16  
ashmount4's Avatar
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Severance, Colorado
Default Rotor, pads, and tires

12 LR4 18k, just put on 255-55-19 Duratrac and EBC stage 8 hd pads and rotors, orange. Wonderful setup, great breaking and the tires while aggressive perform better than expected in all conditions.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 05:51 PM
  #17  
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Default Wear Sensor Replacement

I replaced the front pads in my '12 LR4 today. Easy peasy pad replacement but was stumped on finding the best method to replace the wear sensor. My initial guess is to remove the inner fender but holy moly, there are a lot of connection points to deal with. So my question is, what is the best tack to replace the sensor...from above or below??

Thanks,

Brock
 
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Old Jun 14, 2016 | 08:42 AM
  #18  
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From: Millstadt, IL
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First time I took out liner. Found gobs of leaves and dirt in lower fenders. Just did rotors and pads and peeled liner back to get to connection. Was actually easier to take the whole thing out. Plastic is very hard and does not like being pulled on. The access from top would require removing everything on top to get to the connector.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 08:09 AM
  #19  
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Joined: Nov 2012
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Originally Posted by Jagfixer
First time I took out liner. Found gobs of leaves and dirt in lower fenders. Just did rotors and pads and peeled liner back to get to connection. Was actually easier to take the whole thing out. Plastic is very hard and does not like being pulled on. The access from top would require removing everything on top to get to the connector.
Thanks Larry, as I suspected/feared all of those fasteners/screws must be removed. Given the ease of pad replacement, I am dumbfounded by the fact that so much effort is required to change the sensor too. No wonder dealers charge $1,500, must be labor for the inner fender removal!!

For now I will cut the old sensor off and tie the wires back together to get the warning light to cease and desist...I am in no mood to spend that amount of time on an idiot light right now....

Brock
 
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 03:23 PM
  #20  
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From: Boston, USA
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Isn't the sensor just two wires and a loop that breaks when the odd wear low? If so can't you cut off the old sensor and cut and splice the new one on in its place? Would save having to get to the plug? You'd need to ensure it doesn't hang in the way and the splice is protected from the water/grime. But sounds like a possible quick solution?
 
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