I changed the lower control arms on my LR4. I'm not doing a full DIY, there are videos and writeups everywhere.

Tips:

-Have a big breaker bar and perhaps a large pipe extension for torqued on bolts (arms, axle nut, shock nut)
-Deflate the suspension on the side you're working on at the valve block or a scan tool if you have one. This should have been obvious to me but once I got one of the shock bolts out the shock extended further. I didn't pull any fuses which may have prevented this.
-Have a sawzall with metal blades. Don't bother trying to unbolt and knock the rear control arm bolts out. My 2012 LR4 had 50k fair weather miles and they were seized.
-Mark the control arm bolts before you remove them.
-The axle nut is 32mm and others are 24mm (get a deep socket, I had to cut off part of the front bolt to get the socket on).

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The worst part will be getting the lower ball joint separated. I went through 3 pickle forks and a couple hours of pounding. Get a 5lb sledge hammer and the harbor freight ball joint separator (actually get a couple of them). I bought another separator at the local parts store but the mouth was too narrow to accept the ball joint shaft. Attack the joint from the side, avoid driving the fork towards the break rotor (you could damage it ). Drive it in and put a pipe on it and jump on it. It should pop free....at some point. I also tried heat and the hammer to the knuckle method which didn't work.

I wouldn't try this if you get discouraged or don't have alternate transportation if you get stuck. Good luck.

 

All good tips!

My lower ball joint refused to separate. Finally, I popped loose the tie rod and the upper ball joint. Once the whole assembly was on the ground, two quick hits to the bottom ball joint with a hammer, and it was apart. Wish I had decided to do that earlier.