Welcome. I have a 2016 with about the same miles. Ive had it for 70k miles and had a LR3 prior to that...so have seen most of the issues. Even though it pisses me off from time to time...it's a great car. The LR3 was bulletproof but the LR4 has given me more problems. The SCV6 has coolant pipe issues (crossover pipe and thermostat). Thats going to be your primary concern unless they have already been replaced. At your mileage they likely have been, as they typically go around 75k miles. I also had to replace the low pressure fuel pump (in the tank) after it gave a CEL, as well as the obligatory air compressor (replaced under warranty on the LR4, but I rebuilt the one in my LR3 and its pretty easy), control arms, and sunroof drain.s

Ive had the eco battery go and it was a little flakey. It didnt even give me a code it just stopped working and I realized a few months later. I brought it to the shop for something else and after they cleared the codes I got a warming light on the way home. Replaced it and it was fine.

For the check engine light you are having, ive never had a MAF issue but I did get a CEL and had a rough running engine from a cracked PCV valve. It was a cheap and east fix (<$300) and my mechanic said it's a well known issue on all SCV6s. The rubber cracks and fails.

Make sure you change the oil every 5-7.5k miles. I would also flush your heat core if you live in a cold area. My Lr3 got clogged up at 110k miles but I was able to clear the blockage by running a pump through it for a couple hours. If you cant, you have to remove the entire dash to get to it, which sucks. Also blown your sunroof drains out religiously by removing the air intake cowls on both the driver and passenger side and blowing compressed air into the drain.

 

Thanks Bruce - some good info. 108,4xxK miles as of yesterday. Had cleared all codes Saturday, went for a drive yesterday and it seemed fine for 75 miles. Parked for a stop, then started home and in about 3 more miles CEL came back on and sure enough it was the P2188 & P2190 again, along with the U0001-88, P065C-01, and U0140-08. Last 3 always show as Intermittent.

I'll be looking into that PCV and sunroof drains. The SR drain issue is a known from my H2 ownership days. I even have a SR drain cleaner I purchased a couple years ago.

Any way to tell if the coolant crossover pipes were replaced by looking?

 

I get those temp codes on body control and canbus. I dont think they are meaningful. Im not sure on the main codes you are getting. I think the PCV valve issue gave me the opposite codes of the engine running to lean. im not sure on those main codes you are getting. I dont see anything online that points to a common issue. Seems like you have to rule out:
- air filter
- maf
- bad o2 sensor
- bad injector (seems unlikely).
- fuel pressure (I think you can look at fuel rail pressure in the OBD and see if that can indicate anything)

Re the coolant crossover pipes and thermostat, thats the biggest ticket item on the SCV6. In their attempt to save $ they made the coolant pipes out of plastic, and worse they made them out of a two piece mold. So over time and heat cycles the pipes split and will dump all your coolant. It's how most 2015+ LR4 and RR Sports lose their engines. Prior to that was the timing chain failures on the 5L 2010-2014s, which isnt a material issue for the SCV6. From what my mechanic said the typical issue is somebody gets a low coolant light and ignores it or keeps topping it up thinking it's just a slow leak. Then all the sudden those pipes will implode and dump all your coolant. When that happens he said by the time you get an overheat CEL it's too late and you could blow a head gasket. His recommendation was if you see any loss of coolant, or get a low coolant light, you know you have the beginning of a leak and then it's just a matter of time before the pipes fully implode. So take care of it.

The pipes themselves are maybe $50 part, but you have to remove the entire supercharger to get at them. It's a $3k+ job at your indy. The thermostat housing has the same problem but thats easy/cheap to DIY.

I would think yours already had them done, but I would ask the prior owner. The pipes themselves are hard to see because they are tucked under the supercharger. My mechanic knew the right angle to look down under the supercharger and could see a little coolant residue on the front pipe. So I would just look under the car for any coolant residue and try to get a view of the front cross over pipe under the supercharger.

If you get any low coolant lights, you will know why. If not, you dont worry about it.

 

dry as a bone underneath but that is some good info and feedback. Really appreciate your time/response. Im hoping i can get a look at running data with my OBD sometime this week between errands and work.

 

ummm, I could be wrong... I think they lose their engines because they keep driving them while the engine overheating light is on.

 

The PCV membranes do fail, it's not too difficult DIY just a bit fiddly. This will affect LTFTs. There's youtube videos for it. If your comfortable removing the RH side battery compartment, it makes it easier to do.

The plastic coolant pipes will fail regardless of what version and they don't last long, about 50K miles. Last November JLR offered alloy versions which I've now fitted. They'll last forever.

It's important to check coolant level weekly, even daily just by glancing at the level on the expansion tank, don't wait for MIL warnings as it may be too late.

 

yea I assume the majority of people that blow their engines likely ignored many, many signs: leaking coolant on the driveway, burnt coolant smell, low coolant lights, and then felt the overheat light was just a suggestion however my mechanic told me if that when those pipes fail it can dump all the coolant very quickly and by the time you pull over it may be too late.

 

I'll be asking the LR Dealer shop tomorrow to see if they can find any records of the pipes being replaced. So to be clear - the PCV valve/membrane is on the left (US left &#129396 rear valve cover and it would be the 2nd battery & box to be removed?

 

I said RH side so it would be the main battery and box, plus breather tube. You don't have to remove those things but it's easier to get to with them out of the way. There are youtube videos which detail the RH disassembly as well as the PCV diaphragm replacement.

 

The scary thing is I've had several massive leaks without a low coolant level warning (the expansion tank was still full) or overheating warning because there's wasn't any coolant in the sensor to measure temp, the temp reading actually started rapidly dropping below operating temp.