Hi all, new here. Tried replacing my rear valve block today and thought it went well, got the new one attached and in place, however, upon starting up and trying to let it fill up, it's just throwing suspension faults and saying "air suspension not in customer mode" i use the GAP tool to clear the faults, but as soon as I am able to select a height again and push the button, it just does the same thing over and over. Rear end sitting all the way down. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

 

did you use LR rear block? oem? there are some sketchy ones out there.

 

Well, my plan was to rebuild the oem one and I purchased the rebuild kit of o-rings. Pre-emptively, I also ordered an aftermarket valve block in case something went wrong so I'd at least be able to have one to put in there in the meantime. This is my first real repair job and I have minimal experience so I prepared for the worst. Sure enough, I stripped the plastic threads on the oem block when disconnecting one of the lines. (Did not make that mistake on the next two) so ended up installing the aftermarket one i had ordered.

It dawned on me late last night that while I was so excited about successfully getting the new one in, I forgot to reconnect the electrical wire! Duh! Going to go put that back in place this morning and hoping it's all good.

 

well, the electrical connection should cure it. also did you use new voss fittings?

 

It did! Got it all back up and working. Pretty proud of myself for accomplishing this. Now I'm just leaving it parked in normal height to make sure the issue is fixed. Every time we would get below freezing the rear end would sag which was what brought this on. It's been sitting good for a few hours and the temps are set to get pretty low over night, so this should let me know if I fixed the issue or not if it's still at normal height in about 24 hours.

 

Well sadly, came to find the rear end (both sides) all the way down to the bump stops agains this morning. It was holding air yesterday just fine, parked for 8-9 hours without moving at all (in off road height with fuse pulled). It was about 17 degrees. It dropped to 0 degrees over night and I came out to find it down this morning.

Any ideas on what it could be? Could it be the after market valve I used? Is the leak somewhere else? Air compressor is a bit less than a year old and seems to be working as the car pumps right up on starting.

 

Also just for a bit more background...for it to hold air at 17 degrees for over 8 hours was a major improvement from before I did this. Last week, under 30 degrees, it was dropping to the bump stops within an hour or less.

So, it certainly made a difference but perhaps this extreme cold is just too much.

Also, I misunderstood your last question. I did NOT use new voss connectors, I screwed the existing ones that were on there into the new valve block. The block did come with new connections, though. Should I take it back off and put the new connections on? Do you think that could be it?

If both sides are sinking evenly is it indicative of this being an issue with the valve block still?

 

Code c1130-7a

 

since both sides are sinking [i assume with the fuse pulled it does the same and the front does not lower], it points to possible valve block or leaks at any number of connections. I would get some fairy soap and sprary on the voss connector to the block first and see if you see bubbles then spray them on the connections to the air bags. it could be leaking at the middle block too, spray on those connections and check the pipes for damage. I would also pull any stored codes with GAP tool if you have one.

It could be the aftermarket block but i would probably eliminate posibility of leaks first.

super cold temps should not affect it if it is in good nick

 

A couple things. Not sure what valve block you bought, but the front and rear and not the same yet sellers will say they are. So keep that in mind. Also if the rear goes down perfectly evenly then yes both bags may be leaking but of course if just one sides leak the whole rear will still go down because the other strut is taking up the weight, but you will have a lean unlike the front which is heavier and likes to even out more. Do the soap thing as suggested. Also try going into off-road height and then pull fuses again. If the struts themselves are leaking they often leak at folds in the air strut bag and the cracks are typically found were the bag is folded most of the time, so normal height. When you go to off-road the fold in the bag is moved up and that can sorta seal up any cracks and stop or greatly reduce leaking. So if it holds at off-road but nor normal height, then I tend to think bags are leaking not the valve block. With that said the rear bags last A LOT longer than the fronts typically. I had a leak in my front and replaced the pari but at 220k miles in my 06 LR3 I am still have the original rears.

Your code is just saying you have a leaky strut, but it does not know for sure so it is a plausibility fault, meaning its guessing. It really just means you have a leak and the truck is trying to figure out why it keeps having to add air to the struts even though it has not let any out.