Hello All,

I’ve found this forum to be extremely helpful with my 2011 LR4. I recently came across an issue I have yet to find a resolution for. These errors on the dash pop up.
-stability control not available
-restricted performance
-special programs not available
The issue happened as we were driving normally.
Furthermore I hooked up the IID to it and got the attached fault codes.
i currently have lift rods and the 2016 headlight upgrade. Also after clearing the codes, it still lacks power and idles very rough... what do y’all think?

 

Body codes have nothing to do with Restricted Performance and rough running. Lets see the Engine codes!

 

Was thinking the same thing

 

Hope y’all are having a great Halloween! So I managed to drive it back to the house from the parking lot we left it at. It stalled out a few times but we made it back at 10mph. Same errors coming up on the dash, but the IID tool picked up some different faults. This is also our first COLD day in south Texas. The fault codes are attached.




Have y’all seen anything like this?

 

Others that are smarter than me Will chime in but I think that means a new throttle body is in your future. I think that is an integrated part of it

 

Could a bad throttle body be causing the other errors on the dash?

-HDC unavailable
-Stability control not available drive with care
-Cruise control not available
-Emergency Parking brake not Available
-Parking brake error

Along with the check engine light and the both yellow and red triangle lights on.

 

Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree here but it looks to me like you have had numerous catastrophic electrical failures that were all triggered at the same time...battery connectivity, module connectivity or grounding issues?

 

Throttle codes are rare for these vehicles. It very well could need a new Throttle Assembly, but some things I would try first:

Test your battery. Low voltage while cranking can set off weird faults on systems that are voltage sensitive. If it tests marginal or worse, replace it. I'd look and see if your diagnostic app has provisions to reset the battery monitor, which should be done on these vehicles anytime you replace the battery.

If you have the battery disconnected for testing, leave it unhooked for several hours and while disconnected, clean the throttle body. Parts stores sell a cleaner specifically for this operation. Hold the throttle plate open while you clean the bore and the inside & edges of the throttle plate. I spray a rag, then use the rag to wipe. If you spray directly into the throttle, you run the risk of flooding the motor and/or having solvent wick into the electronics via the throttle shaft.

Check all your fuses. Throttle doesn't usually have its own fuse, but simple stuff like that often gets overlooked.

Don't worry about the other faults until you fix the throttle issue. Often times, "invalid data" is how related systems are shut down for safety and fixing the root cause will eliminate the invalid data faults. If the engine doesn't think it can control the throttle, then sub systems that rely on engine (HDC, Cruise, Traction, Stability, etc..) are also of no use and are disabled.

 

I’ll definitely Give that a try this weekend and will let y’all know how it goes.

Thanks

 

Alright, I took the battery to get checked and it came out good. One thing I don’t remember doing was resetting the battery ECU with the gap tool when I installed this battery. When I hooked up the battery I made sure to reset the battery ecu and started her up and no errors came on and she runs like normal!

It had been around 4/5 months with the new battery installed with out resetting the battery ecu and sometimes with the doors open for a few minutes I would get an alert to start the Car due to the battery being low. Looks like not resetting the battery ecu can cause a little mayhem on these voltage specific sensors.