Jumping over from the 2020 Defender Forum looking for some advice. I am looking for a LR4 to drive around town occasionally and take camping. I am wondering if there are certain years, trim levels, mileages, engines, etc. that I should be weary of. Looking for something that wont leave me stranded in the woods. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

My recommendation is to get a 2012-2013 LR4 V8. 2012-2013 models have the updated timing chain guides (although they still are prone to the same problems) but another reason for the NA V8 is the coolant crossover pipes are much easier to replace since you don't have to remove the supercharger. Also, all V8 LR4s come with the infinitely-variable center diff and two-speed transfer case, whereas most V6 LR4s come with a single-speed transfer case and a Torsen center diff. HD pack V6 LR4s have the two speed transfer case, infinitely-variable center diff ,an active rear diff, and a full-size spare. HD pack on the V8 is just the rear diff and full-size spare.

Try to find one that has had frequent oil changes (5000-7500 mile intervals) as these are significantly less likely to have timing chain problems. Also look for ones that have had the water pump and crossover pipes replaced, as well as rear lower control arms.

I had a 2011 LR4 for ten years and replaced it with my Defender. In several ways, I actually prefer the LR4. Much more usable interior as well as superior interior packaging. The split tailgate is so much more convenient than the barn door on the Defender, and the third row was designed to fit people 6'2" and under comfortably. It doesn't have the modern tech features of the Defender, and it doesn't ride as well as the Defender (although the ride quality is very good), but you'll feel at home in an LR4 if you're used to the Defender.

 

Thanks, this is super helpful. I really like the interior of the LR4 and the third row looks like an RV compared to the third row on my 110. I appreciate the insight on the year and the rationale. I have been scouring the internet and have a few that may fit the criteria. Are there any other things to look out for? Sunroof drains? Issues with interior features or electronics?

 

I agree but would consisder the 2010 and 2011 v8s as well. all of the older lr4s arae really cheap now, I would get as low mileage as possible and jjust have a wad of cash to go ahead and change the timing chains and tensioners...while in there, do the crossover pipes and thermostat/housing. Otherwise, expect the replace the front LCAs and perhaps the suspension pump and blocks. good to go from there and still in pretty inexpensively.

 

Sunroof drains are fairly common. Mine was kept in the garage the entire ten years I had it, so I never had any issues with clogged drains. Rear lower control arms are also fairly common. I had those replaced around 50k miles. The interior electronics are pretty basic, and its rare to see something go bad unless it was accidentally damaged etc. Another reason to get the 2012-2013MY is that it has an updated (but still fairly basic) infotainment system with Bluetooth audio, as well as upgraded sound systems. The base system in 2012 was an 11-speaker, 380-watt Harman/Kardon system compared to a 9-speaker, 240-watt Harman/Kardon system in the 2010-2011MY. The upgrade in 2012 was a 17-speaker, 825-watt Harman/Kardon Logic7 surround sound system, compared to the 2010-2011MY 14-speaker, 480-watt H/K Logic7 system.

 

Actually , I have a 2 speed transfer case in my 2015.
The ZF8hp transmission is smoother than the 6hp…. And everything is “newer”. I’m quite pleased.

 

Thank you all very much, this is incredibly helpful. I look forward to spending some more time on this side of the forum!

 

Agree with advice given thus far, however, I'll add that if you can find one with a new engine, that is a great option. Just listed one in marketplace that fits that criteria.