Got a 5000K H11 Hid kit for the low beams on my 2010 LR4.. Installation is super simple, plugged the right hand light in with the HID installed in just that one, and after 2 seconds it shut off.. The left one stayed on.. Put the Halogen back in, and nothing.. The right is still off.. Tuned off the truck, tuned it back on, and now the right is back on with the Halogen.. Put the HID back in, same thing.. Turns on for 2 seconds and shuts off... Put Halogen back in, tuned the truck off/on, and right hand Halogen back on again..

What the f###????
I also tried finding the fuse for low beams and that's seems to be impossible on these things.. anyone know where that fuse is or what can be happening???

The kit is a 55W H11

Thanks

 

Xenon and HID usually mean the same thing when talking about headlamps. Most HID lamps have xenon gas in them.

So I'm guessing you're converting from halogen to HID? I've not seen an LR4 that didn't have HID, but I guess there must be some out there. What all comes in the conversion kit?

 

yes, HID conversion on a non HID LR4... The kit comes with bulbs, balasts, and wiring..

 

Maybe the ballast is bad, throwing a breaker? (I'm not sure if there is a breaker for the headlamps).

Maybe swap the ballast side to side? Are they plug and play?

 

yea, plug and play.. its something with the car... First, I cannot find a fuse for the low beams anywhere.. Also, its the car that is shutting off that light for whatever reason.. Maybe a surge in draw, I don't know.. funny thing is, I have never heard of any car doing anything like this ever before.. Usually you just get a blown fuse so you know what is going on..

 

Yeah. That's why I said breaker. A lot of automotive lighting systems have breakers.

 

also, the hid light will turn on for a few seconds.. Looks like the light is warming up normally and then just shuts off

 

so then it is an electronic breaker than turns on and off all by it self?

 

Could be. I don't have any manuals for LR4, but yeah a lot of them are self resetting breakers.

 

So simple yet unavoidable problem with newer "electronic" vehicle.
The vehicle has a lamp sensing system, which in turn would indicate to the driver is a bulb were to fail.
This simple way of doing this is to look for a short, or an open in the circuit. However some modern vehicle <20yrs, look as resistance in the circuit. Same reason on my Wife's BMW only Sylvania, and Phillips bulb will work. All other branded bulbs, even if they are good, will trip the bulb fault indication in the car.
Back to the LR4. They use a transistor in lighting control circuit to disable power all together in the even of a fault for a few reasons, water ingress is the most prominent reason. The after market HID kit is taking 12V and stepping it up to 15KV+ to "ignite" the HID bulb. This results in serious in-rush current, as well as a circuit acting differently than designed, thus the vehicle "senses" this and shuts down the offending circuit.
When you cycle the key it resets the fault, and the computer will then again attempt to operate the circuit, until it see's the fault again.
It may or may not trip a fault indicator in the car. This all depends on how long the fault is present.
If you have Halogens, which a lot of LR4's on the road have, get a high quality bulb (Sylvania, Phillips...) that have the color temp you desire.
Also from experience most of those aftermarket HID kits are problematic to both the vehicle and other drivers on the road (Think purple headlights coming at you on the road)