That's funny that you started this thread: I was thinking of doing the same as your setup (VW 1.9 with Toyota trans). I thought I'd be the first... But I scratched my head about how the rear prop shaft will end since the Toyota T-case has the rear output at the center instead of to the side... That would be awesome to be able to source parts to adapt the LR T-case to the toyota gearbox so the E-brake stuff and prop shaft arrangement would remain the same... Anyways, I subscribe to this thread!!

 

Subscribing too.

 

I'll have an update soon. The motor mounts are done and welded in.

I was toying with the idea of LR transfer case and Toyota tranny, but the CNC adapter plus i have no idea how the splines would work etc etc makes it a daunting task

With that being said, the transmission rear output shaft does get in the way of the body, if you look underneath, the passenger feet area is too low and the driveshaft would rub against it. Lowering the tranmission is a possibility but the engine has to be high enough so the oilpan doesnt bash into the front axle at full compression. Its a bit of a game of compromise. In the end to help with the issue i cut the floor pan out and will be welding in a tunnel. A body lift and a suspension lift would help with the problems.

I'll take pics and show you. Work has slowed down as i ended up buying another Disco for offroad parts and have to tear it apart asap. so it may be a week or so before i touch the Diesel Disco.

 

Looks like it's raining Discos in Toronto area! I haven't acquired a thing yet to build something from my side except for the approval of my wife.... I'm looking for a cheap and clean Disco with a good driveline now. I found one but I find it still a bit expensive for a blown engined vehicle... And I must finish a lot of other projects... I think you'll have plenty of time to solve all of the bugs before I even touch a Discovery!

Body lift seems to be the way to go as it makes everything so much easier. A kit made with 1 1/2" square tubing may give enough room for the toyota t-case plus it will then be easier to clean the frame after mudding!

 

I've just found this page on adapting a rover's T-case to a Chevy auto slushbox, pretty inspiring...

Land Rover Transfer Box Adapter Plate

And even more inspiring, an article on adapting various North American common gearboxes to the LR T-cases:

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/gearboxSwap.htm

 

I'm just curious...for the body lift would you just cut the tubing, tack it and use longer bolts? Is that really all there is to it (as long as wiring, shifter, etc. are still in the right spot and right length)? Is that all there is to it??? I have a slight suspension lift (3"), but a couple of inches body lift, if it is that easy, would solve alot of problems. I have laid under the Disco a FEW TIMES just staring at those body mount points...

 

First of all I must say that the closest I've ever been of a Disco for real is about from 20 feet. That being said, on any vehicle on which the cab mounts to the frame on horizontal surfaces you can shim it with rectangular tubing, you can even move the cab forward or back with offset top and bottom holes and one more set of short bolts, so you can adjust the centering of tires with the wheel wells. Long bolts all the way through the tubing will crush the tube and become loose. If you want to use long bolts, I'd rather recommend the hockey puck trick, but with 1/4" wall sleeves in the center and large washers each side of the pucks. Then for the links between the cab and chassis, you must make sure the slip steering shaft is long enough, but usually when the shaft is at about 40 degrees of an angle the lift doesn't make a big difference. You may need to lengthen brake lines between cab and body, wether by making new lines of just by putting longer hoses if there are hoses (I did that on my Iltis). For the harness, I don't think there is a lot of wiring on the frame of a Disco but if there is, check what slack you have and if need be unattach the harness to add some loose in the front and see if it's still long enough all the way to the back: in the worst scenario you will have to add a few inches of wires by cutting the harness and the middle and lengthening it with shrink terminals. Do it well so it's waterthight! That's about it... You must be able to do it all in one long sunday with a buddy!

 

Go to Advance Adapters they have adapters to mate LR transfer cases to various type of Jeep/Chev/Ford trannies. They don't mention a L230 T-case but they do mention Series T-case. and then they just mention a LR T-case that maybe a L230 T-case

 

Thanks for the suggestion but i'm way ahead of that stage...the tranny and engine are in, mounts made. Its sitting in there pretty.

Custom driveshafts would have to be made due to the change of position of T-case anyways, so no biggie.

I dont know why you guys have such a hate for the Toyota t-case. Tons of aftermarket for it and its strong to boot.

 

Personnaly I don't hate the Toyota T-case at all, some says that the LT 230 is stronger but the Toy one is sure a better piece of engineering. There is also a difference between building a trail rig and a competition 500hp crawler truck! The Toyota T cases are more than enough for the vast majority... The main reason to keep the LT 230 would be to keep its original location and not having to fabricate the propeller shafts. Other than that, if one by example would move all the driveline to fit the bellhousing/gearbox lenght and plans to redo the propeller shafts anyway, keeping the LT 230 would become more and more pointless, especially if a land cruiser's driveline is used with the t-case outputs both to the right size.

I think others also just use another rear diff housing with the yoke in the center to fit their t-case. But at that point, it's less and less a real Land Rover ...???