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37X12.50R on a d1 and currie antirock style sway bars

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Old 02-28-2013, 07:13 PM
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Talking 37X12.50R on a d1 and currie antirock style sway bars

i have been searching around for specs on people who when big,

i installed my 5" heavy springs , decided to keep the 33"s for the street and order a set of hummer wheels with bead locks with 37"s from Trail Worthy Fab


trying to get 14" fox's up front and 16" in the rear with 4" bump stops to keep the huge wheels from smashing the body..
and i know drive shaft ,cv joints,are done ,brake lines,links ,a arm, and i still need axles and gearing..

so i need to know what off set to pick i want to go as wide as i can go but still have doors that seal closed from mud/sand and or still be street legal. so i can drive to local 4x4 trails..


also if u have any pictures of discovery with long travel and have sway bars please post them or tell me where to look
been looking at currie antirock rear and front sway bars to keep this top heavy boat from falling over..


soon i will have a under-powered baja/mud/rock/recovery/chase all in one rover..


side note picture of stock old front spring vs the rte 5" heavy spring ill have pictures of the whole new set up in the next 10-15 days(waiting on fox racing for new custom valved shocks with res, much thanks to Fox racing ,Mc Neil racing ,GBR , and RTE for great customer service ..
 
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Last edited by d1eddie; 02-28-2013 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:25 AM
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What lockers are you running?
 
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:24 PM
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i was going to grab my lockers and via gbr, but want an electronic or air locker for the front and i might go for a Detroit Truetrac in rear, on gearing i have yet to do the math. but from the power loss with 33" tires i assume 37" are going to need a drastic gearing change... i also still need cv joints and axles , like all my projects it going to be a big heap of parts before i start toying with my 37" hummer bead lock wheels ..

tho i still keep in mind using a the completed front and back diff from a heavy duty truck
 
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:54 PM
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If you're sticking with Rover stuff I'd go with Ashcroft air lockers. I don't see the point to doing a Detroit in the rear(esp a trutrac) if you need air for the front locker. The only thing a Detroit has going for it is the price.
 
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:20 AM
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who has Ashcroft air locker front and back on there d1? any one, any reviews ?
 
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by d1eddie
i have been searching around for specs on people who when big,

i installed my 5" heavy springs , decided to keep the 33"s for the street and order a set of hummer wheels with bead locks with 37"s from Trail Worthy Fab


trying to get 14" fox's up front and 16" in the rear with 4" bump stops to keep the huge wheels from smashing the body..
and i know drive shaft ,cv joints,are done ,brake lines,links ,a arm, and i still need axles and gearing..

so i need to know what off set to pick i want to go as wide as i can go but still have doors that seal closed from mud/sand and or still be street legal. so i can drive to local 4x4 trails..


also if u have any pictures of discovery with long travel and have sway bars please post them or tell me where to look
been looking at currie antirock rear and front sway bars to keep this top heavy boat from falling over..


soon i will have a under-powered baja/mud/rock/recovery/chase all in one rover..


side note picture of stock old front spring vs the rte 5" heavy spring ill have pictures of the whole new set up in the next 10-15 days(waiting on fox racing for new custom valved shocks with res, much thanks to Fox racing ,Mc Neil racing ,GBR , and RTE for great customer service ..
Did you measure anything before you choose this setup? Everything is going bind up before you get any travel. The rover suspension just is too limiting for shocks that long. While they may fit, your gonna be running on the bumpstops and maybe get 6" of down travel before the suspension binds up.

Jack the truck up, remove a tire, take a shock off and measure how far down the axle will travel and that will show you what I'm talking about. Do it one side at at time, front then rear.

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Old 03-05-2013, 10:30 AM
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really nice rig,
i am sure Mc Neil racing inc, know how to build , and i get plenty of flex with my gbr custom drive shafts and bent links up front and no sway bars, right now i believe i have a tube rear a-arm and links being fabed up,
next pay check is front and back air or electronic lockers, axles, cv joints , and gearing i know will be needed to move them 37" on bead lockers..
then my next next pay check i am getting a roll cage tied into the frame with a small exo cage..

my goal is a multi use recovery/chase truck that can do rock and fly pass the sand silt traps ( i wish this motor had and extra 100hp..)
 
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:39 AM
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So someone is building this truck? Are they changing out the frame mounts for the radius arms and trailing arms to use a orbital joint? If not, the bushings will bind and you'll be lucky to get 6 to 8 inches of travel out of shocks that long.
Also, with that much lift and that much tire, going fast is the last thing you'll be doing
 
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:27 PM
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Mongosd2 I was wondering what are the spring rates on your coilovers? I have a 97 D1 that I am thinking about doing the same set up you have. Your truck looks like it works really well.
 
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:40 PM
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250/300 on the front 9100 2.5" Bilstiens…valve stacks equals about 425/150 with 185lbs of nitro pressure
275/300 on the rear FOA 3.0" stacks were done based on spring rate and nitro pressure by FOA
 


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