So it sounds like I need a lift I was thinking the ome lift but dont know if I should get medium duty or heavy duty. I still want it to flex good off road so I dont want to go to stiff. Got off topic there but..

The reason for the 235s is that is close to the size of the Camel Trophey trucks and that is kind of the style I wouldnt mind going for.

But I think the 265s and a lift is gonna be what I do.

I have both sets of tires so that isnt an issue. The 235s are some old mud tires the 265s are Yokohama Geolander ATs.

Thanks Jah.

 

So, what sort of wheeling will you be doing? wheel articulation is not determined by wether you run medium or HD springs, the type of trails and things like extra weight from bumpers, sliders or a winch make a difference.
Most people run the HD springs to handle to abuse of wheeling.

 

It sounds like I would be better off with the hd springs, since I plan on adding all those things you said plus other gear and people.

I plan to drive on rocky trails and hillclimbs in the Ozarks in Southwest Missouri, Arkansas and Northeast Oklahoma like Disney and such. If you guys are familiar with that kind of land. Honestly I wont be on any trails that you should be going down with a buggy. I dont mind some body damage if I have to but would rather not damage the body.

 

Sorry to hi-jack the thread but you guys are saying that if we want to lift our trucks 3" we don't need to replace the driveshaft for longer ones? I just pulled a CDL and front DS out of a Disco I with the grease fittings yesterday and was wondering if i need spacers or something once i lift it(for front and rear).

 

If you are driving a D2, use 779 OME ft HD coils and 762 rears along with their HD shocks.

 

Not to scare the hell outta ya, but the 2003 has some potential oil pump issues that the only fix for is a new engine. So I would check if your vin falls between the faulty ones. just incase. but the front driveshaft is a must do, if youre semi mechanical, you can do it yourself.

 

And a reminder: you need to know what kind of wheelin' you want to do. Going to a wider tire *looks* cool but can get you in serious trouble down the road. They call those hugely oversized tires "floation sizes" for a reason -- they distribute enough of the truck's weight so that you can "float" on mud and sand. So if you go that way, you have to go *ENOUGH* that way so that you actually "float" for the weight of your rig -- which is going to be a LOT more than for a Jeep Wrangler or a Toyota 4Runner!

I've found that I uniformly get better results by sticking with the stock size tire, in a much more agressive tread like the BFG MT's. And that's in sand, mud, and hard rock like Moab and the Rubicon. For snow/ice, I drop down a width or two, and go a little taller if possible. I used like to run up the back side of Mt Hood and Devil's Head in the dead of winter, sometimes running for hours at a time without running across tracks from other rigs, being the only guy on the new snow. That's a blast!