San / Salt
#1
#2
#3
What vehicle are you using now?
Rinsing off would be a good idea. But I would also repair the finish on exposed metal. When the factory finish is damaged from scrapes and scratches, the metal starts to rust. Get underneath and find the spots that are already rusting and clean them off with a wire brush, remove oil, grease, and wax with a solvent (for example: Gunk for grease followed by brake parts cleaner for oil and wax). For more rusted areas, use naval jelly and/or a rust converter product. Prime and paint. You don't need to use a special paint like POR-15, but some people report good results with that. If you just used Rustoleum primer and paint you are better off than leaving the metal exposed and you can easily and cheaply continue to patch it. On top of the primer and paint, consider using a rubberized undercoating. Many of these products perform poorly, but I think the 3M "Professional Grade" product and the product from SEM are good ones. The key is having a clean enough surface that they will adhere.
There are more involved procedures you can undertake with Waxoyl products and even hot-dipped galvanizing, but indeed they would be more suitable for a frame-off rebuild/restoration project.
Rinsing off would be a good idea. But I would also repair the finish on exposed metal. When the factory finish is damaged from scrapes and scratches, the metal starts to rust. Get underneath and find the spots that are already rusting and clean them off with a wire brush, remove oil, grease, and wax with a solvent (for example: Gunk for grease followed by brake parts cleaner for oil and wax). For more rusted areas, use naval jelly and/or a rust converter product. Prime and paint. You don't need to use a special paint like POR-15, but some people report good results with that. If you just used Rustoleum primer and paint you are better off than leaving the metal exposed and you can easily and cheaply continue to patch it. On top of the primer and paint, consider using a rubberized undercoating. Many of these products perform poorly, but I think the 3M "Professional Grade" product and the product from SEM are good ones. The key is having a clean enough surface that they will adhere.
Amazon.com: SEM 39523 Rubberized Undercoating Aerosol - 19.7 oz.: Automotive"]Amazon.com: VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz.: Automotive
There are more involved procedures you can undertake with Waxoyl products and even hot-dipped galvanizing, but indeed they would be more suitable for a frame-off rebuild/restoration project.
Last edited by binvanna; 01-03-2015 at 12:47 PM.
#4
For boxed frames Eastwood sells a frame coating in spray can with special nozzel to coat frame interiors like a spray on zinc coating, a little pricey but worth it if it works IMO, we used it on my brothers truck bed in the hat channels and inside the bed skin, to early to know if it does anything, looks like primer when dry
Iirc the window sticker on my lr3 stated zinc coated frame
Iirc the window sticker on my lr3 stated zinc coated frame
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
endneu913
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
3
12-27-2007 11:23 PM
HorizonDesire
4X4 Events and Weekend Outings
2
01-30-2007 11:31 PM
B5B6B4D2
4X4 Events and Weekend Outings
2
01-30-2007 10:35 PM