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I finished up the adaptive cruise retrofit on our 2018 HSE-Lux today. This was a lot more work than I expected, but everything seems to have come together nicely.
Alright girl... Let's go. Suspension in offroad height is enough to get the fender liners and bumper cover off.
Remove grille
Fender liners
Wheel arch trim. It's held on by a decent amount of double-sided tape which will need to be replaced later.
Tape up the edges to protect them.
Remove front tow loop cover.
Wow. What have I done.
Radar unit goes here. For my 2018 I used HPLA-9G768-AD from an L405 Range Rover. The radar came with the bracket and about a meter of pigtail cut from the donor vehicle.
Routed the pigtail to the LH side toward the ABS module.
Removed the LH side headlight to access the engine bay harness.
Peeled back the insulation and located the chassis CAN bus wires. The colors match the blue/bluegreen wires from the radar, but I also verified the colors in the service manual wiring diagrams.
Spliced the radar to the chassis CAN bus.
All taped back up with self vulcanizing rubber tape.
Verified the radar angle. The concrete slab in my garage has a 0.7 degree slope, so 0.6 is perfect. The specs say plus or minus 0.5 degrees.
Grounded the radar to the chassis ground in the wheel well arch. This leaves power and accessory power. Routed those in split-loom into the cowl and across to the engine fuse box.
Drilled a hole in the fusebox lid and passed an add-a-fuse tap through a silicon grommet in the lid. I had to cut a bit of plastic in the lid that's intended to hold the fuses down.
Right now both the power and accessory power are on the same 5A fuse installed in F31. I made sure this fuse position is off when the car is off. If there are any issues I'll figure out how to get the accessory power to the body control module behind the glovebox.
Updated the CCF with my Gap tool, triggered the dynamic calibration and went for a drive. The orange ACC indicator blinks until the calibration completed. This only took about 6-7 miles. Parked the car, locked it while I went into the store and when I came back it was all working. Success!
Added Adaptive CC to my 2006 LR3. Quite a nice feature to have since I travel out in the country side a lot where small towns will drop to 45mph. With a car in front of me I don't have to do anything, the LR3 slows to match. Love it! The collision avoidance is nice too, the braking application is a lot stronger than expected.
I finished up the adaptive cruise retrofit on our 2018 HSE-Lux today. This was a lot more work than I expected, but everything seems to have come together nicely.
Alright girl... Let's go. Suspension in offroad height is enough to get the fender liners and bumper cover off.
Remove grille
Fender liners
Wheel arch trim. It's held on by a decent amount of double-sided tape which will need to be replaced later.
Tape up the edges to protect them.
Remove front tow loop cover.
Wow. What have I done.
Radar unit goes here. For my 2018 I used HPLA-9G768-AD from an L405 Range Rover. The radar came with the bracket and about a meter of pigtail cut from the donor vehicle.
Routed the pigtail to the LH side toward the ABS module.
Removed the LH side headlight to access the engine bay harness.
Peeled back the insulation and located the chassis CAN bus wires. The colors match the blue/bluegreen wires from the radar, but I also verified the colors in the service manual wiring diagrams.
Spliced the radar to the chassis CAN bus.
All taped back up with self vulcanizing rubber tape.
Verified the radar angle. The concrete slab in my garage has a 0.7 degree slope, so 0.6 is perfect. The specs say plus or minus 0.5 degrees.
Grounded the radar to the chassis ground in the wheel well arch. This leaves power and accessory power. Routed those in split-loom into the cowl and across to the engine fuse box.
Drilled a hole in the fusebox lid and passed an add-a-fuse tap through a silicon grommet in the lid. I had to cut a bit of plastic in the lid that's intended to hold the fuses down.
Right now both the power and accessory power are on the same 5A fuse installed in F31. I made sure this fuse position is off when the car is off. If there are any issues I'll figure out how to get the accessory power to the body control module behind the glovebox.
Updated the CCF with my Gap tool, triggered the dynamic calibration and went for a drive. The orange ACC indicator blinks until the calibration completed. This only took about 6-7 miles. Parked the car, locked it while I went into the store and when I came back it was all working. Success!
This is brilliant, I have been looking to do this for a while but was unsure on the wiring connections. Could you confirm the power and ground wires from the sensor?
Thanks
Here's the speed control module diagram. This is for the Ford style module. I *think* JLR switched to a Bosch module in late 2018. Be careful with the ACC/IGN wire as it's the same color as the CAN-LOW. It's easy to tell apart since the two CAN wires are twisted together.
There are a couple of Bosch retrofit harnesses for the L494 RRS and L405 RR on ebay that might work. Not terribly expensive either. Might be worth looking into.