Cross-shopping a few vehicles
#11
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In order to retrofit the factory real locker, does any wiring need to be spliced? Or is the body harness the same in both vehicles? I imagine you’d need the differential(obviously), the switch in the console, and either a different control unit or changing the programming? Anything else I’m missing?
My 2 unimportant and worthless cents: don't do it in the first 40k miles. Why ? warranty. By the end of the 40k miles, you will see if you really need it, or you can live without it.
Anyways, congratulations for your choice.
#12
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That’s a very interesting thread, thanks for posting.
This isn’t going to be a new purchase. I don’t think I’d ever buy a brand new vehicle. I’d rather buy something with some miles already on it and, hopefully(fingers crossed), most of the bugs worked out of it. I dealt with new car bugs enough when I worked at the dealership
This isn’t going to be a new purchase. I don’t think I’d ever buy a brand new vehicle. I’d rather buy something with some miles already on it and, hopefully(fingers crossed), most of the bugs worked out of it. I dealt with new car bugs enough when I worked at the dealership
#13
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On my (MY '21) I have the rear locking dif. It is amazing what it can do. Really is.
But I also have ( my wife does) a Disco 5 (MY '22) and that one does not have it. Unless it is a real challenging situation, you won't feel the need for it. But over all, yeah, is good to have.
If you buy it preowned, is it the mileage over 40 K ?
If so, then go for it, but please document it for the public knowledge. It would be a YOUTUBE smash !
If you still have warranty, wait a bit. Parts for JLR ( heck...for everything else) are expensive if you get zapped out of warranty.
More than likely you will need the .cfg files and a good unit to program it.
Best of luck, and keep us posted.
But I also have ( my wife does) a Disco 5 (MY '22) and that one does not have it. Unless it is a real challenging situation, you won't feel the need for it. But over all, yeah, is good to have.
If you buy it preowned, is it the mileage over 40 K ?
If so, then go for it, but please document it for the public knowledge. It would be a YOUTUBE smash !
If you still have warranty, wait a bit. Parts for JLR ( heck...for everything else) are expensive if you get zapped out of warranty.
More than likely you will need the .cfg files and a good unit to program it.
Best of luck, and keep us posted.
#14
#15
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@The D - I would say a cautious : yes. An extended warranty would be money well spent, IF ( and that is a big IF ) the warranty if it is from or serviced by the manufacturer. Aftermarket warranties come in many flavors and forms. In my past (painful) experience they are a waste of money. If you can get a vehicle that is CPO.
I learned my lessons with Mercedes where in 3 years alone the CPO warranty paid about 38,000$ in repairs on a single GL alone. Then again, the MLs and GLs were the worst vehicles I ever owned.
Now, if you go with CPO from LR be careful. Look with a magnifier at exclusions. Some would not cover rubber hoses. Well, those are not expensive to buy, BUT, any subsequent damage from that rubber hose, to the engine, would not be covered either. So....read the fine print, but over all, I would buy an LR CPO any day.
I learned my lessons with Mercedes where in 3 years alone the CPO warranty paid about 38,000$ in repairs on a single GL alone. Then again, the MLs and GLs were the worst vehicles I ever owned.
Now, if you go with CPO from LR be careful. Look with a magnifier at exclusions. Some would not cover rubber hoses. Well, those are not expensive to buy, BUT, any subsequent damage from that rubber hose, to the engine, would not be covered either. So....read the fine print, but over all, I would buy an LR CPO any day.
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