If I use the 4 jack points noted in the owners manual, how do I get the car in the air to get the jack stands positioned under the jack points (assuming the lifting pad of the jack will be occupying the jack point)? Would I take a floor jack and lift somewhere in the middle? Or do I try to jack from the rear jacking point high enough to get front wheel off the ground, then slip a jack stand under the jack point? Also, I seem to remember that with an LR4 we had some years ago, that I had to put the air suspension in jacking mode before jacking to change a tire. I can't find anything in the manual regarding what height suspension should be at in order to jack. I did see something in the 2017 manual that said place the suspension in off-road mode prior to jacking, but again, unless I missed it, nothing in this manual. Asking in order to change engine oil. I can fit under in off-road 2, but it is pretty tight quarters under there. Thanks in advance.

 

hopefully this helps

 

as for oil change, isn't it easier on the new ones to extract oil from the top?

 

I would recommend getting some ramps.

If that isn't an option, jack at the base of the control arm mounting point.

Then place jack stand at jacking point as described in pdf above.

Lock air suspension, by leaving the door open, lol.

 

I saw those spots (the ones labeled "2") whilst looking underneath the car and wondered if that would be a suitable spot to place a jack stand, or alternatively to jack from and place the jack stand on the sill jack point. Yes that does help a great deal.
About extracting from the top...am I crazy to be worried that extracting from the top would (or could theoretically) be less effective at extracting suspended particulate matter?? I'm probably going way to overboard here (as I tend to do, lol). And I suppose if I'm just using it in as the in between the manufacturer's suggested intervals and letting the pros do it periodically then that wouldn't matter.

One of the things I was thinking of was to do a short interval "break-in" oil change after the first say 1000 or so miles as that would typically be the time where there is going to be more metal shed from a new engine. Just food for thought.

 

Ok, this is kinda sad, but I'm apprehensive about (1) finding ramps that are wide enough (2) the ramps moving on me on the concrete when I try to drive up them and (3) screwing up and driving over the ramps and having them crash onto the underframe. Maybe it is easier than I think?!?

People on this forum are probably reading this and thinking "this guy has no business even changing oil"j, lol!

 

have someone to spot you while you drive up. Typically the ramps have non-skid pads/material underneath.
Drive up slow & steady, so your spotter can tell you when to stop.
A fellow forum member may be willing to assist, if you're local to someone.

 

I personally wouldn't worry about insolubles, especially since you plan on changing oil during break-in.
You can look into getting a used oil analysis done, if you want to establish a wear baseline for the motor. Feel free to pull up my reports for reference.
All the best & let us know how things go; we're here to help

 

So if I buy a vacuum pump oil extractor, where do I stick the tube? Dipstick tube, correct? I looked inside the oil fill cap, and did not see the small "pipe" or tube where I see you tubers attach the vacuum hose, so I was thinking perhaps down the dipstick tube as far as it will go?

I was indeed thinking of sending a sample for an analysis as well. Not knowing enough about the fluid mechanics of engines, I guess the oil performs more like a colloidal suspension whereby the particles are suspended in the oil?

 

Yes, dipstick tube extraction should work fine. I'm told dealers do it the same way as well.
I have the diesel motor, so there may be some layout differences; feel free to take a picture of the engine, and post here.