Rear Brake Pad Info
#11
02-24-2020, 01:11 PM
For future reference, attached is the Land Rover procedure that I gathered from another on a FB D5 forum; not sure if it works. I bought a relatively inexpensive Foxwell (520) service tool for my F10 BMW in large part for this capability (also does battery registration amongst other helpful features,) and it worked alright. I can add Land Rover to it for like another $60. Newer Foxwell 530 and this 650 look like they may even work better.
Foxwell Newest Version Foxwell NT650 Elite Multi-Application Service Tool
Foxwell Newest Version Foxwell NT650 Elite Multi-Application Service Tool
Last edited by AirRyan; 02-24-2020 at 01:18 PM.
#12
02-26-2020, 11:21 AM
I completed the front brakes last night using the Z36 Powerstop kit once again. It came with the sensor which once again makes this kit such a good value.
I have to say though that the removal/install was needlessly time consuming. As I was tracing back the wear sensor, it eventually snaked behind the inner fender liner. I get that they want to protect the connection, but to get to it you have to remove then inner fender liner from the car. Not a big deal, but wastes time. Also, the factory pads have an adhesive that bonds them to the caliper. As a result, the caliper did not simply swing out after removing the slide pin bolts. I had to remove the whole carrier with the caliper and pads still in place, then c-clamp the pads off the caliper to tear the adhesive. Again, not a big deal, but all this adds time to what should have been a 1.5-2hr job.
Another note is that the front caliper bracket bolts that bolt to the hub are TIGHT. My cordless impact was unable to get the job done. It took most of my bodyweight and a 30" breaker bar to crack it loose. When reinstalling, I just tightened it more or less as hard as I could, with some blue Loctite for added safety.
Haven't driven it much except for a 10 minute test drive, but so far, so good. I'll see how it does once the pads break in. I also need to give it a thorough wash and see how much better the brake dust is with the new pads. It did wonders on my other cars.
I have to say though that the removal/install was needlessly time consuming. As I was tracing back the wear sensor, it eventually snaked behind the inner fender liner. I get that they want to protect the connection, but to get to it you have to remove then inner fender liner from the car. Not a big deal, but wastes time. Also, the factory pads have an adhesive that bonds them to the caliper. As a result, the caliper did not simply swing out after removing the slide pin bolts. I had to remove the whole carrier with the caliper and pads still in place, then c-clamp the pads off the caliper to tear the adhesive. Again, not a big deal, but all this adds time to what should have been a 1.5-2hr job.
Another note is that the front caliper bracket bolts that bolt to the hub are TIGHT. My cordless impact was unable to get the job done. It took most of my bodyweight and a 30" breaker bar to crack it loose. When reinstalling, I just tightened it more or less as hard as I could, with some blue Loctite for added safety.
Haven't driven it much except for a 10 minute test drive, but so far, so good. I'll see how it does once the pads break in. I also need to give it a thorough wash and see how much better the brake dust is with the new pads. It did wonders on my other cars.
The following users liked this post:
gmfain (04-29-2020)
#13
02-26-2020, 11:24 AM
For future reference, attached is the Land Rover procedure that I gathered from another on a FB D5 forum; not sure if it works. I bought a relatively inexpensive Foxwell (520) service tool for my F10 BMW in large part for this capability (also does battery registration amongst other helpful features,) and it worked alright. I can add Land Rover to it for like another $60. Newer Foxwell 530 and this 650 look like they may even work better.
Foxwell Newest Version Foxwell NT650 Elite Multi-Application Service Tool
Foxwell Newest Version Foxwell NT650 Elite Multi-Application Service Tool
#14
02-26-2020, 07:53 PM
You guys sound like you are doing okay. Did you mean the pads were adhered to the pistons? Or does the caliper slide with pads on one side.
Also in my experience with every other vehicle except I haven’t done the D5 yet, there’s no need to replace a brake pad wear sensor unless it has contacted the rotor and triggered the light.
Also in my experience with every other vehicle except I haven’t done the D5 yet, there’s no need to replace a brake pad wear sensor unless it has contacted the rotor and triggered the light.
The following users liked this post:
gmfain (04-29-2020)
#15
02-26-2020, 07:56 PM
#16
02-26-2020, 08:08 PM
The backing plate on the stock pads appear to have an adhesive on them. They didn't stick much on the piston side, but the outer pad was stuck on the opposing side of the floating caliper.
Also in my case, the front pad wear sensors did trip, so I had to replace them. The rear did not, but they got brittle enough that they snapped when I tried to pull them off by hand. The brake kit came with new sensors, so I wasn't bothered by it.
Rotors were still usable but developed quite a lip on the front, but being that I got all 4 disks, pads and sensors for $400 US, I didn't mind replacing them.
Also in my case, the front pad wear sensors did trip, so I had to replace them. The rear did not, but they got brittle enough that they snapped when I tried to pull them off by hand. The brake kit came with new sensors, so I wasn't bothered by it.
Rotors were still usable but developed quite a lip on the front, but being that I got all 4 disks, pads and sensors for $400 US, I didn't mind replacing them.
Last edited by BalanBro; 02-27-2020 at 07:26 PM.
#18
04-28-2020, 08:13 PM
So it's been a while and time for an update.
I finally installed the Powerstop Z36 brake kit on the rear. Unfortunately, I tried the EPB service mode procedure described in the manual about 5 times, and it never went into service mode. It did release the parking brake, but not completely to allow you to compress the caliper piston. It was a pain. I ended up unbolting each EPB motor, and had to manually wind back each caliper with a torx bit (don't remember the size) which then allowed me to compress the pistons. You will need a few different size torx bits for the job, so make sure you have a full set.
For the bolts, the P/N I listed above was correct. When replacing them, I torqued to 81ft. lbs per the instructions, marked 120 degrees with a sharpie and tried to torque them with a large breaker bar, but I could not get them there. I made it maybe 60 degrees at best. I felt comfortable enough stopping there because that was way tighter than the factory hardware was anyway, plus the new bolts are precoated with fresh thread sealant.
I haven't gotten to test anything as it turns out my fronts were shot as well, so I will put those on this week before I test drive the car. Overall, I am happy with the Powerstop kit though. It came with both rotors and pads, grease, a new pad wear sensor, brake pad retaining brackets, and even new boots for the caliper slider pins. This really is a good value when you consider all that you get. Will let you know how it all turns out when I do the fronts and finally get to test drive it.
I finally installed the Powerstop Z36 brake kit on the rear. Unfortunately, I tried the EPB service mode procedure described in the manual about 5 times, and it never went into service mode. It did release the parking brake, but not completely to allow you to compress the caliper piston. It was a pain. I ended up unbolting each EPB motor, and had to manually wind back each caliper with a torx bit (don't remember the size) which then allowed me to compress the pistons. You will need a few different size torx bits for the job, so make sure you have a full set.
For the bolts, the P/N I listed above was correct. When replacing them, I torqued to 81ft. lbs per the instructions, marked 120 degrees with a sharpie and tried to torque them with a large breaker bar, but I could not get them there. I made it maybe 60 degrees at best. I felt comfortable enough stopping there because that was way tighter than the factory hardware was anyway, plus the new bolts are precoated with fresh thread sealant.
I haven't gotten to test anything as it turns out my fronts were shot as well, so I will put those on this week before I test drive the car. Overall, I am happy with the Powerstop kit though. It came with both rotors and pads, grease, a new pad wear sensor, brake pad retaining brackets, and even new boots for the caliper slider pins. This really is a good value when you consider all that you get. Will let you know how it all turns out when I do the fronts and finally get to test drive it.
Can you please explain the part about manually winding back the caliper with a torx bit? You didn't turn the piston itself, right? Did you turn a torx screw at the center of the back of the piston after removing the electronic parking brake (2 torx bolts)? Then, after winding back that torx you were able to push the piston back in?
I just gave it a try and couldn't push the piston in. Then the EPB activated by itself and pushed the piston out even more. I removed the EPB motor but didn't see a torx to wind back. I hate it when I am unable to fix something myself.
#19
04-28-2020, 08:57 PM
Can you please explain the part about manually winding back the caliper with a torx bit? You didn't turn the piston itself, right? Did you turn a torx screw at the center of the back of the piston after removing the electronic parking brake (2 torx bolts)? Then, after winding back that torx you were able to push the piston back in?
I just gave it a try and couldn't push the piston in. Then the EPB activated by itself and pushed the piston out even more. I removed the EPB motor but didn't see a torx to wind back. I hate it when I am unable to fix something myself.
I just gave it a try and couldn't push the piston in. Then the EPB activated by itself and pushed the piston out even more. I removed the EPB motor but didn't see a torx to wind back. I hate it when I am unable to fix something myself.