Hi All,

I just brought back my 2020 Disco5 SE Si6 from the dealer. Dealer fixed a fault tailgate latch under CPO Warranty. On the workshop notes. For Texas weather, it is recommended to change the plastic components of the cooling system at 5-7 years.

I recently got the coolant flush done at an Indy and things seems to be Ok.

Wondering if any experience preemptively fixing the plastic components of the cooling system. What componentr are recommended for changing? Any thoughts ??

 

With the SCV6 in there I would go ahead and do the rear ross over pipe (heater manifold) LR122710, front cross over pipe LR090630 , oil cooler inlet connection LR011997, thermostat LR117568, and even the water pump just to be safe while you are in there. When I did mine after purchasing up in Dallas I also went ahead and replaced the radiator just to be safe after reports of some leaks in the early models. Also, you might want to consider changing the plastic bleed screw over to brass while the system is being refreshed. After all that it is still cheaper than replacing an engine.

 

The coolant crossover pipes are one of the biggest problems with the AJ133 5.0 V8, and the AJ126 3.0 V6, which is the same design as the V8. These pipes always go bad, and it will certainly help to get them replaced at this time if they are original. It isn't cheap, as they have to remove the supercharger and a good chunk of the top of the engine. Might as well have it fixed under your CPO warranty.

I had this happen three times on my old LR4 V8 and once on my old D5 Si6. The crossover pipes went at five years and 37k miles on the D5. It cost $3000 at my indy mechanic, which was about $900 more than it cost me for the same repair on my LR4. The LR4 is easier to replace the pipes because it didn't have a supercharger and the top of the engine to be removed. I sold it not too long after this happened, not because of this repair, but because I already had a new car on order to replace it. This was the only issue I had with my D5 in the five years and 39k miles I put on it.

Here is a list of every part needed for this repair:

 

CincyRovers
How are you doing with the Defender these days? Getting ready to put some money down on a 130 v8 after the insurance company decides on what to do with my D5 after a bad tank of gas tore it up. Still going through everything I want on it but it seems like a good replacement for the D5. Still keeping our LR4 5.0 for the around town car so the 130 will be used for long hauls and towing our RV.

 

The Defender has been excellent. I ordered it to replace my old 2011 LR4, and had it alongside the D5 for a year and a half or so before I sold that to buy the Porsche. I currently have 37k miles on my Defender and I took delivery almost four years ago. Other than a few software bugs, the only issues I had with the car was the ECU for the fuel pump went bad a month after I took delivery and both of the LED DRLs went bad (which is a common problem on MY20-MY22 Defenders). Other than that, it as been flawless. I have the 2.0 I4 and it is more than adequate. I originally planned on ordering the P400, but early cars had terrible throttle programming, so I decided to go for the P300 instead. The throttle programming has since been fixed on P400 cars. If i bought one now, I'd get the P400 or the 5.0. Still highly recommend the P300 on the 90 or 110. The 130 P300 is a de-tuned version of the P400 I6. I had one as a loaner and it was underpowered IMO. The 130 weighs about 500 lbs. more than my 110 thanks to the extra length, features and the MHEV system. I do suggest you get the P400 if you do the 130.

Happy to answer any questions you might have!

 

I was leaning towards the 130 P400 X model for a while. I wanted to do the same and trade in our 11 LR4 but the wife held fast on that one since it is her car now after we sold our D2 and got the 5 (she did not want the Evoque we had and I can not blame her). After talking with Josh at Hill Country British and Justin at Lucky 8 I think we are going for the V8 instead since we will be towing a lot with our RV long distance. Nothing against the 6 cylinder but in the hills those extra pistons should help with a 6500lb load. Glad to hear you have had good luck with yours, It seems like most owners I have talked to really enjoy the Defender but it is always good to hear from the ones that went from a D5 over to a defender.

 

The V8 will probably be your best bet. The P300 and P400 have zero engine braking, and the V8 does, which helps when towing. Not sure if you're aware of this, but the 130 is rated to tow 6613 lbs., compared to the 90 & 110 which are rated at 8201. If your RV is only 100 lbs. less than the rating, you might want to reconsider. Just my two cents.

 

I know the numbers are all over the place as to what is posted online and in the i owners guide for the 130. I am going back to the dealership and checking door stickers on the P500 and P400 to be safe. I have been reading through the Defender forums with the towing questions and it seems like they knocked specs down for the 25MY V8. If it is that low for the 130V8 and the 2025 130 P400 still keeps the same tow rating the 2024 model has and what our current D5 has at 8201lbs I might just have to settle with the p400.

 

I have no doubt the 25MY can still tow 8201 lbs. safely, as they haven't made any structural changes for the 25MY. Whether it is legal or not to overload the stated capacity is a whole other issue...

 

I agree but you know LR will do something stupid if anything happens and you are not following that stated capacity. Hard call to do and try to stay with a vehicle make that I have been driving for almost 30 years. At least the local dealership has been great in answering questions and letting me climb all over the vehicles getting the answers I need.