Replacing Plastic Coolant parts - Recommended for Texas
With the SCV6 in there I would go ahead and do the rear ross over pipe (heater manifold) LR122710, front cross over pipe LR090630 , oil cooler inlet connection LR011997, thermostat LR117568, and even the water pump just to be safe while you are in there. When I did mine after purchasing up in Dallas I also went ahead and replaced the radiator just to be safe after reports of some leaks in the early models. Also, you might want to consider changing the plastic bleed screw over to brass while the system is being refreshed. After all that it is still cheaper than replacing an engine.
Last edited by ar077; Oct 5, 2024 at 11:32 AM. Reason: Clarification
The biggest problem with the Td6 is that it is prone to crankshaft failure. I've seen crankshafts snap as soon as 10k miles, and I've seen cars with 120k with no issues. When the crankshaft goes, you'll need a new engine. The F-150 doesn't have this issue, as it has a forged crankshaft with bespoke rod bearings, compared to the aluminum crankshaft used in the JLR products.
Last edited by CincyRovers; Oct 7, 2024 at 09:27 AM.
No, these parts are only for the supercharged V6 and some of these parts are shared with the V8 used in other JLR products. Td6 is a completely different engine and doesn't share anything with the AJ126. The V6 was developed by Ford and the PSA Group (Peugeot and Citroen) and has been in production since 2004. The AJ126 supercharged V6 went on sale in 2012, and is based on the AJ133 V8 that went into production in 2009. When Ford sold JLR, JLR bought the rights to the engine, but it was still produced at a Ford engine plant in the UK. This is how this engine became available in the F-150 for a few years.
The biggest problem with the Td6 is that it is prone to crankshaft failure. I've seen crankshafts snap as soon as 10k miles, and I've seen cars with 120k with no issues. When the crankshaft goes, you'll need a new engine. The F-150 doesn't have this issue, as it has a forged crankshaft with bespoke rod bearings, compared to the aluminum crankshaft used in the JLR products.
The biggest problem with the Td6 is that it is prone to crankshaft failure. I've seen crankshafts snap as soon as 10k miles, and I've seen cars with 120k with no issues. When the crankshaft goes, you'll need a new engine. The F-150 doesn't have this issue, as it has a forged crankshaft with bespoke rod bearings, compared to the aluminum crankshaft used in the JLR products.
After seeing that YouTube video, I switched to 5W-40 synthetic diesel oil (Amsoil Signature, to be exact), which is what I use in my GMC Duramax Diesel truck.
Last edited by ar077; Oct 7, 2024 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Clarification
It's been a hot summer here (the hottest on record) and the engine seems to run more smoothly, which (if true) could be due to the added film strength between the crankshaft and main bearings of the higher viscosity oil. I didn't expect to see any noticeable operational improvements and only wanted to increase the longevity of the engine. The Disco is now over 7 years old but only has a little over 60,000 miles on the odometer. It's always garaged and still looks new, and I plan to keep it until the engine quits or the transmission fails, either of which would not be worth repairing.
The main reason that I switched to 5W-40 is because it's a diesel. Since yours is a petrol engine you should stick to 5W-30.
The main reason that I switched to 5W-40 is because it's a diesel. Since yours is a petrol engine you should stick to 5W-30.
Here's a link to the direct replacement metal pipes from RKX: https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx...44378830045483
It's been a hot summer here (the hottest on record) and the engine seems to run more smoothly, which (if true) could be due to the added film strength between the crankshaft and main bearings of the higher viscosity oil. I didn't expect to see any noticeable operational improvements and only wanted to increase the longevity of the engine. The Disco is now over 7 years old but only has a little over 60,000 miles on the odometer. It's always garaged and still looks new, and I plan to keep it until the engine quits or the transmission fails, either of which would not be worth repairing.
The main reason that I switched to 5W-40 is because it's a diesel. Since yours is a petrol engine you should stick to 5W-30.
The main reason that I switched to 5W-40 is because it's a diesel. Since yours is a petrol engine you should stick to 5W-30.
I wanted to conduct a small experiment and see how it turns out.
I removed 7.5 liters of Kirkland 5w30 full synthetic oil from my vehicle after 1500 miles. I refilled with Valvoline Euro 5w40 full synthetic.
Recorded the videos of engine sounds at new 5w30 oil , 1000 miles oil and 1500 miles.
Now starting to record the sounds at new 5w40. FWIW the engine sounds happier than 5w30, a lot quieter and sounds like a sewing machine.
Compared to the 0w20 that I removed (originally in the vehicle when I purchased it) its a far cry interns of smoothness of how the engine sounds,
My mall and school shuttle commute is pretty routine, Will post the finding after a month .
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