Has anyone else got this check engine code? Wondering of possible fixes to share with my um somewhat lacking service dept.

P2002 is like premature particulation or something like that . . .

 

Yes, I got it. I believe my cause was low grade diesel fuel. ( but I also had to swap out a new battery too, don't think it related.)

Exxon has a premium fuel, also Costco .

I filled up at my Exxon, light went off before I arrived home, 11 miles.

Hope it works for you too!

 

P2002 is for the DPF. Get some good diesel, premium diesel if you can, and go out for a drive on the interstate for a good 30 to 40 minutes. At this point, if you can't burn off all that soot with an active regen, at some point the dealer will have to perform their procedure and/or just replace it.

I suggest you run a good diesel additive at every fill. I have run Stanadyne and Optilube but I really like Hot Shot's Secret now. They have an additive called Everday Diesel Treatment that works really well; should turn regular diesel into premium diesel. The key is the more efficient combustion (increased cetane) the less soot leftover as a result, to clog up your EGR, intake, and your DPF. If you have access to Renewable Diesel (RD), that is full-fledged 100% premium diesel. (Not to be confused with sh¡tty biodiesel.)

I'm running their Gray Diamond Euro 5w-30 right now and can't believe how quiet my Td6 runs, especially coupled with the EDT. It has their FR3 friction reducer in it already premixed and frankly, the oil already had good specs. It's a mid-SAPS C3 oil that meets MB 229.51, VW 507 (Same as Porsche C30), and BMW LL-04.

https://www.hotshotsecret.com/everyd...sel-treatment/

https://www.hotshotsecret.com/gray-diamond-euro-oil/

https://www.hotshotsecret.com/fr3/

 

Yeah, per the suggestion in my other thread, I already tried the HotShot additive through 2 tanks but the code keeps coming back. I've heard the whole premium diesel thing is a lot of hype but this is our 4th diesel and we are running the same diesel from the same stations that we ran in the first 3. I thought perhaps it was the wife is only 13 miles to work and maybe that is not enough time/distance for the DPF to clean [with the Discovery anyway] but the last time it came on was out in western Kansas a couple hundred miles after resetting the code here. No rhyme or reason to it . . .

 

I will also add to my experience, I was running Optilube with Race Trac fuel.

I'm going to stay with the Exxon premium fuel, and see if it works.

I'll check back in in a few months with results.

 

The diesel additives aren't going to necessarily clear an already clogged DPF, but they will reduce how frequently that DPF needs to be cleaned. I'm a little leery on what I have read about short trips and the SCR/DPF on these vehicles, as I have owned other SCR/DPF vehicles and never had such an issue. Even if you get that message saying it's beginning to become clogged, I can't imagine why a good long drive and active regen or two cannot solve it. 13 miles in stop and go alone is probably not enough as it sounds, but mix in a good 30+ minute trip above 50 mph and you should be.

Out of curiosity, what kind of oil are you running? I can't imagine that an ACEA C2/C3 would be the reason for this; in fact, I bet most US JLR dealers don't even import the specific JLR Castrol ACEA C1 from Europe and instead, use the Castrol ACEA C3 oil that is much easier to find here in the US. One JLR dealer sent me a pic of what they use for the diesels and it was the Castrol Edge Professional OE 5w30 C3 oil. Let's be honest, most folks aren't going to be able to tell you the difference between an ACEA C1, C2, or C3 oil spec.

I know the JLR spec on the oil is an ACEA C1 or low SAPS, but the vast majority of manufacturer oil specs for diesel equipped vehicles replete with SCR/DPF's (MB 229.51/52, VW 507/511, BMW LL-04, etc.) and oils on the market in the US are C2/C3's; we're only talking about 0.5 wt% vs. 0.80 wt% of SA with an ACEA C1 compared to a C2/C3. (Ravenol's C1 5w30 has a SA at 0.58 wt% whereas Motul's C1 does say 0.43 wt%, but who knows what Castrol's C1 actually is.)

 

I noticed the premium diesel at Exxon a couple of weeks ago; probably a combination of RD and a good additive. The Valero's around here used to say up tp 5% RD or BD, but lately the two that I have been going to have just said up to 5% BD. Might have to give this a try.

 

I have a VW TDI that also uses DEF, VW said no biodiesel at all.

I would research what JLR says....... my Exxon had no biodiesel.

I will see what I can find out from JLR

 

Use only high quality diesel fuel, according to the European standard EN590:2013+A1:2017, WWFC 5 cat. 5 or equivalent.
CAUTIONFuels containing a blend of up to 7% bio-diesel may be used, in accordance with the European standard EN590:2013+A1:2017. Using a higher blend of bio-diesel is not recommended. Inadequate fuels may damage the fuel system and engine components, or premature fuel filter blockage may occur.

The quality and specification of diesel fuel varies significantly, depending on geographical location. Using a premium fuel is recommended, or the highest quality of fuel available. High quality fuel promotes a longer life for the engine's components.
CAUTIONLower grade fuel contains higher levels of sulphur, which is detrimental to the engine's components. If low quality fuel is used, light coloured smoke may be evident at the exhaust.

Prolonged use of additives is not recommended. Do not add paraffin or petrol to diesel fuels.

 

All good information . . .

Her 13 mile commute is 10 highway with just the last 3 in 40-45. Should be plenty of time/distance or at least it has been with her Audi TDI, or my Cayenne TDI before the LR. We only had the Touareg TDI at the old home in town years ago but no DPF issues.

I actually do not know what oil is in it?? Whatever the dealer has in bulk. Only 2 oil changes but they did them.

Figures, we have an apt Tue and . . . the code has disappeared again on its own.