Hi everyone -

I'm wondering if it is possible to replace part #2 (circled, image 1) without removing the entire ignition cylinder assembly. Appears that one of the connections broke off and the two wires which were attached (image 2, inside green circle) are no longer attached to the switch where the connection has broken off (image 3, red arrow).

Since the connection broke, turn indicators and all engine-related warning lights and gauges stopped working. Starter DOES work, as do headlights, fog lights, hazard lights --- all stuff that would work without your key being in the ignition.

Any way to replace this broken part without removing the entire assembly, drilling out the pins, etc.?

Thanks in advance, appreciate the input.

 

Managed to get the switch out without having to remove the entire ignition. The two grub screws turned out to be small Philips-head which an eye glass repair kit screwdriver fit perfectly. Just a lot of tear-down of the dash to get there.

Question on the reassembly --- is there an ignition position that is best to get the right alignment? I adjusted the new switch to match the position of the old switch (on the back side of the image in the photo, the part that rotates) but the alignment of the two small screws is off by an RCH, and they just won't quite seat and grip. There are scuff marks on the edge of the case where the screws are rubbing on the metal while trying to be screwed in, but just slightly misaligned.

Given that the switch is prone to failure, I don't want to fiddle with the install any more than I have to.

Thanks for the input so far!

 

Got switch mounted back in and secured with the non-original Philips-head screws (so much for the original grub screws) and thinking it may be installed a bit too snug against the ignition as when the key is turned, it (1) is very tight and (2) doesn't want to return to RUN from START position. The alignment of the holes in the switch and those in the ignition just slightly out of whack, so thinking that in getting them aligned may have installed too tightly. So back to fiddling and see if we can get the key-turn back to normal.

 

Apologies if my posts are incredibly rudimentary for most folks on this board, I'm learning as I go so appreciate you bearing with me as I muddle through. Also, I travel for work so this is a project I try to work on whenever I can (ie when I'm home) so there are gaps in progress!

The switch is back in and wired up and battery reconnected. Now, instead of the motor turning over I'm getting a noise similar to clicking sound when trying to start on a weak battery. This is a RHD 110, the noise is coming from what sounds like the footwell/firewall of the passenger side. I still have the old glass fuses and all appear in order.

Open to thoughts on troubleshooting and likely culprits?

Gotta laugh, this started as a quick 'n easy binnacle upgrade and now.... I have a 110 that won't start!