1992 RR and wanted to know if anyone here can verify the photo and parts in question.

Also, engine will not crank over currently and the starter motor has a wine to it making me thing it is shot. The truck has been running off and on but has also been sitting up for a while.

Checklist:
front/rear diff fluid
oil
trans fluid
spark plugs/wires
coolant
air filter
alternator maybe
starter

what else?

 

Crickets...?

 

Starter motor = ABS Pump
Don't Know = Vacuum ball for cruise control if memory serves
Ignition something = ignition coil

Are you bringing it back to life buying it or?

 

Thanks!

Local owner down the road had it sitting in her yard and is now determined to bring it back to life. She has asked me to lead the quasi restoration. At this point I just want to get it running so I can diagnose what needs to be replaced or repaired under the hood. It needs quite a bit of interior work and a major cleaning from top to bottom.

Im going back over Monday to look it over and take many photos.

 

No worries

 

1 > Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS )
2 > Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor
3 > Brake Fluid Reservoir on top of the hydraulic booster
4 > ABS Pump w Braided HIGH Pressure hose going to the ACCUMULATOR
5 > Vacuum Tank Reservoir for A/C... Part # MUC1679
**(Not related to cruise control function. The CC Vacuum Pump lives drivers side front just below the PS Res)
6 > Ignition Coil
7 > Power Steering Fluid Reservoir ( REMEMBER>>>> AT Fluid ONLY!!!!!! )
8 > Idle Air Control Valve ( Stepper Motor )
9 > PCV Flame Trap, Plus 3 hoses and 1 Tee fitting
10> AC Receiver Drier w pressure switches
11> Evap Fuel Vapor Charcoal Canister
12> Vacuum Hose for Distributor Vacuum Advance

ONE HEADS-UP when working on RRC Brakes (this ain't no Disco) you MUST DEPRESSURIZE the SYSTEM FIRST before opening any hydraulic line.
This system makes a $hit ton of pressure.
Failure to do the 3 simple steps below will lead to very bad times.

HOW TO >>>>

1 Switch OFF Ignition
2 Press the brake pedal down 30 times. The pedal travel will increase slightly and reduced resistance will be felt as the pressure decreases.
3 WAIT for 60 SECONDS, press the pedal 4 MORE TIMES. That's it all pressure is now evacuated from the system.

OMG was I bored tonight

 

Before you throw in money for any parts, file down to a shine all ground points from the battery and all ground distribution points.

I bet she will run even with your "bad" starter. Lightly tap the starter housing and solenoid with a hammer.

Ryan

 

Excellent info guys.

I’ll post more photos tomorrow.

 

Guy at the shop where it was taken said it needed a fuel pump. Any thoughts on this recommendation? Right now it won't turn over at all.



Any ideas what the blue, yellow and orange markings are?




A few more markings on the rear axle

 

WOW that thing is in crazy good shape! Got to love the OE Exhaust.

Re: Fuel Pump, not uncommon to go bad and easy enough to test for voltage and pressure.
> Replace the fuel filter and fuel pump relay at the same time.
Re: The paint marks, IIRC they are part of the assembly line process. If I get other info I'll post up.
Generally it looks good and you have the leaks in all the right spots (swivel ball seal, crankshaft seal, oil pan...…)

Just a heads-up the clamp on the drag link is not tight.