2012 Range Rover L322 5.0 SC - Fan Speed, Temperature Issue and Engine Whirring Issue
#1
08-31-2024 | 06:45 PM
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2012 Range Rover L322 5.0 SC - Fan Speed, Temperature Issue and Engine Whirring Issue
Hoping you can help. Had to repair a loose valve seat on my 2012 Range Rover L322 5.0 SC. I removed both cylinder heads although only one needed to be repaired. I reinstalled everything and it started almost immediately. However, the radiator fan runs at high speed, the engine appears to be getting hot faster than usual and when I accelerate, the engine makes a loud whirring/wind sound but sounds good when idling or coasting (Not a grinding or a vibration, it more closely resembles an 18 wheeler truck in 1st gear going forward after a complete stop). When idling it sounds perfect except for the high-speed fan. Need some help given the following as I think I have three separate issues.
1: The fan is always at full speed as it must think the engine is running hot whether the engine is cold or hot.
2: The OBD2 reading is always 302F for the engine temperature, even at a cold start (Catalytic converters also both read exactly 1645F at a cold start regardless of engine temperature).
3: The engine whirrs loudly when accelerating but sounds good when idling or coasting (except for the high-speed radiator fan noise). Again, the noise is not a grinding or a vibration, it more closely resembles a loud leaf blower.
Some history on what I have done:
1: The fan is always at full speed as it must think the engine is running hot whether the engine is cold or hot.
2: The OBD2 reading is always 302F for the engine temperature, even at a cold start (Catalytic converters also both read exactly 1645F at a cold start regardless of engine temperature).
3: The engine whirrs loudly when accelerating but sounds good when idling or coasting (except for the high-speed radiator fan noise). Again, the noise is not a grinding or a vibration, it more closely resembles a loud leaf blower.
Some history on what I have done:
- Sprayed contact cleaner on both Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensors (male and female sides).
- Installed a new ECT at both ECT1 and ECT2 locations to see if it was a bad sensor.
- Ohm meter readings of both ECT sensors at the female ends are 18 kohms when cold.
- Removed ECT 1 and ECT2 connection and installed a jumper wire in the female end to see if the fan speed would modulate but no modulation occurred.
- OBD2 reads 302 F regardless if the engine is cold or warm.
- The dashboard temperature gauge tracks correctly. Shows cold at start-up and tracks to the straight up 12 o’clock position within 5 minutes.
- The Catalytic converters read 1645 F regardless if the engine is cold or warm.
- Coolant was replaced and bled. All radiator hoses are warm to the touch when engine warms up.
- I removed the insides of the thermostat just to make sure that it was not restricting flow. I did not replace the insides yet so I can obtain maximum flow within the system.
- Both cylinder head gaskets appear to be sealing tight. No backfeed pressurization of the coolant system and no engine exhaust smell or discoloration of the coolant.
- Coolant is orange OAT pre-mix (not concentrate).
#2
10-05-2024 | 12:15 PM
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