2011 RR sport 100K: keep or ditch ?
#1
2011 RR sport 100K: keep or ditch ?
Generic question about when it makes sense to move on, based on the car and its known issues... I have no experience on the longevity of this particular model..
2011 RR sport, just about 100K miles. Just did a service to it, and in the past month got a low coolant warning (probably will turn out to be a hose or water pump or something), and tonight it started squealing like a pig when turning right (that'll be a bearing or a CV joint or something else $$$). I'll add to that the wheels are severely curbed and in great need of refinishing, the body is starting to show scratches and dents, the seats some wear...
So basically I'm considering either doing a bunch of repairs, cosmetic fixes, giving the car a new start (we still like it) and driving it into the ground.. Or trading it now before the expenses escalate..
No supercharger, big unstressed engine, I sort of expect the motor at least to last a while but reading worrisome threads about head gaskets.. On the flip side, after 2 issues in 2 weeks, *IF* they are known to go from one issue to the next after 100K miles and I'm throwing good $ after bad, I'm better off trading it now for something new...
Just asking for opinions if some of you have experience with higher mileage RR sport - are they known for specific issues after 100k ? ! Thanks !
2011 RR sport, just about 100K miles. Just did a service to it, and in the past month got a low coolant warning (probably will turn out to be a hose or water pump or something), and tonight it started squealing like a pig when turning right (that'll be a bearing or a CV joint or something else $$$). I'll add to that the wheels are severely curbed and in great need of refinishing, the body is starting to show scratches and dents, the seats some wear...
So basically I'm considering either doing a bunch of repairs, cosmetic fixes, giving the car a new start (we still like it) and driving it into the ground.. Or trading it now before the expenses escalate..
No supercharger, big unstressed engine, I sort of expect the motor at least to last a while but reading worrisome threads about head gaskets.. On the flip side, after 2 issues in 2 weeks, *IF* they are known to go from one issue to the next after 100K miles and I'm throwing good $ after bad, I'm better off trading it now for something new...
Just asking for opinions if some of you have experience with higher mileage RR sport - are they known for specific issues after 100k ? ! Thanks !
Last edited by Deschodt; 05-04-2018 at 11:37 AM.
#2
#3
From the sound of it, you've answered your own question. If you want an older vehicle to behave in the 2nd part of it's life, like it did in its first part, you would need to know, or know someone who knows every bit of the car, and what needs to be addressed going forward. I'm not sure the following is strong enough on this forum for that kind of experience for your truck. It's mostly older truck knowledge around here.
I'm sure a dealer would love to randomly replace all kinds of things, but according to Murphy's law, they'll certainly miss the next thing that fails at the worst time, leaving you stranded or inconvenienced. The $ you spend refurbishing this one could be the down payment for the next one that has a warranty. If you want to keep a truck past 100K with minimal repairs, I suggest a Land Cruiser or Lexus equivalent.
I'm sure a dealer would love to randomly replace all kinds of things, but according to Murphy's law, they'll certainly miss the next thing that fails at the worst time, leaving you stranded or inconvenienced. The $ you spend refurbishing this one could be the down payment for the next one that has a warranty. If you want to keep a truck past 100K with minimal repairs, I suggest a Land Cruiser or Lexus equivalent.
#4
Or a newer generation land Rover. These are not your Discovery 2. I have to LR3's both pushing 150k miles. Both are solid reliable vehicle if you do your maintenance. Let me repeat that Do your maintenance. While you are doing it you will catch things that are tired.
I have no issue with 100k plus on a Rover, and love people that do as it allows me.to get them on the cheap.
I have no issue with 100k plus on a Rover, and love people that do as it allows me.to get them on the cheap.
#5
You have to remember the issues of the AJ133 5.0.
At 80k-150k+ mattering on service history and usage of the right pedal, they have issues with timing chain guides wearing through the metal portion and failed hydraulic tensioners. A slapping noise can be heard, there's a few videos on youtube of what a proper engine should sound like. I'd recommend keeping an ear out for it. I'd put it at a 90% failure rate.
If you're getting a low coolant level warning, check the thing! These have plastic pipes that run through the engine, if they overheat and break you will be buying a new block. These have been blowing head gaskets left and right due to negligent owners not checking things. Yes, they have issues with water pumps, get it done now before something goes.
At least check the coolant
If you plan to keep the truck, do a transmission fluid and filter replacement job on it. Use mercon SP as it has only a 2% difference in makeup from ZF Lifeguard 6. I'm unsure on a DIY for the L320. You should have the 6HP-28. If you do not do a fluid replacement, it will significantly reduce the life of this transmission.
At 80k-150k+ mattering on service history and usage of the right pedal, they have issues with timing chain guides wearing through the metal portion and failed hydraulic tensioners. A slapping noise can be heard, there's a few videos on youtube of what a proper engine should sound like. I'd recommend keeping an ear out for it. I'd put it at a 90% failure rate.
If you're getting a low coolant level warning, check the thing! These have plastic pipes that run through the engine, if they overheat and break you will be buying a new block. These have been blowing head gaskets left and right due to negligent owners not checking things. Yes, they have issues with water pumps, get it done now before something goes.
At least check the coolant
If you plan to keep the truck, do a transmission fluid and filter replacement job on it. Use mercon SP as it has only a 2% difference in makeup from ZF Lifeguard 6. I'm unsure on a DIY for the L320. You should have the 6HP-28. If you do not do a fluid replacement, it will significantly reduce the life of this transmission.
#6
the low coolant warning is likely a saturated float in the expansion tank. You can replace the float for about $16 or replace the entire expansion tank (with a new float) for about $45. It is an easy DYI. The hardest part is burping the coolant system when after you have replaced the expansion tank. I did our LR3 last weekend, along with the thermostat housing. It was an extra five minutes worth of work.
Phil
Phil
#7
Ok so let tell you how this ended... We have a very good independent land rover guy down the street who over the years took great care of our Disco, LR3s, and RR... so we gave "keeping it till it's worth nothing" a shot.. The screeching noise was thought to be a failing water pump dripping on a belt. I thought it was more metallic...
We were both right...
The water pump was leaking copiously... It was replaced...
Then the screeching continued, the right front bearing was dead, replaced.. $1700 total..
Then one week later the water pump failed AGAIN ! Apparently there is a rash of bad OEM pumps out there, my concern at that point was that the second failure did lose more coolant than the first and we might have hastened a possible head gasket situation down the road...
The indy told us he has not done many head gaskets on these but he has performed MANY timing chain guides, $3400 or so...
As we were pondering all this, the car refused to start until we pressed super hard on the brakes (switch?) and that pretty much clinched it for my wife.. She traded it in for a Q7 under CPO warranty.
Don't get me wrong, we love the truck, but she needs something reliable for work commute and business driving, and the truck spent the best part of 2 weeks in the shop last month which created a lot of issues and rental car situations... So it's gone... She still loves it more than the new car, and I have nothing bad to say about it either. But past 100K, if you don't have a usable spare car for work, it can be trouble.
We were both right...
The water pump was leaking copiously... It was replaced...
Then the screeching continued, the right front bearing was dead, replaced.. $1700 total..
Then one week later the water pump failed AGAIN ! Apparently there is a rash of bad OEM pumps out there, my concern at that point was that the second failure did lose more coolant than the first and we might have hastened a possible head gasket situation down the road...
The indy told us he has not done many head gaskets on these but he has performed MANY timing chain guides, $3400 or so...
As we were pondering all this, the car refused to start until we pressed super hard on the brakes (switch?) and that pretty much clinched it for my wife.. She traded it in for a Q7 under CPO warranty.
Don't get me wrong, we love the truck, but she needs something reliable for work commute and business driving, and the truck spent the best part of 2 weeks in the shop last month which created a lot of issues and rental car situations... So it's gone... She still loves it more than the new car, and I have nothing bad to say about it either. But past 100K, if you don't have a usable spare car for work, it can be trouble.
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