1958 Series 2 Land Rover
This is a very rare classic Land Rover Series II (1958) in showroom condition that has undergone a complete ground-up, frame off, nut and bolt restoration. This vehicle is not only perfectly restored, but is also a very rare find for collectors as it was the first year of the "Defender" style and is the rarest of all standard Land Rovers. The vehicle is often times referred to as a "Series 1.5" because it still retains many of the Series I features including the IOEV 2 litre engine. This pristine vehicle has been features the original chassis, engine, transmission and axles; all numbers are correct and match, all parts were sand blasted and refinished. The Bulkhead and frame are original and rust free and have never been bent or welded. The vehicle also features a new galvanized bumper, all new wiring, new upholstered seats, new tires (including a spare), and new jump seats in the rear. This vehicle is quite possibly one of the finest and oldest examples in the U.S. today and is a 'must have' for any Land Rover enthusiast or classic collector. I can send you more pictures upon request. I also advise those interested to look into this particular model via the internet to verify for themselves the rareness and uniqueness of this exquisite vehicle. Thanks for looking, serious inquiries only. $25,000 obo
No kidding! That's pretty funny. Considering the buildup in the text I was expecting factory or NOS everything. If you don't buy new cables, at least go this route:
Step 2: Buy the best terminals
1 of 1
Photo 1: Don’t make this mistake
Cheap lead terminals can compromise electrical connections. A compression terminal offers the best connection and costs only a few bucks more.
Every auto parts store sells cheap lead battery terminals (see Photo 1). They work. But the clamp plate squashes the cable flat, so you only get partial electrical contact. Instead, get pro-style cast-copper compression terminals. A compression terminal is made from tinned copper and makes full 360-degree contact with the cable. Seal the entire connection with heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion. Buy QuickCable brand battery terminals at NAPA for $3 to $8 each, depending on the cable size. Also buy red and black heat-shrink tubing.
Couldn't have said it better myself. Of course, starting a 2 liter engine doesn't require much current but if $5 was saved here, how much was saved elsewhere?
Step 2: Buy the best terminals
1 of 1
Photo 1: Don’t make this mistake
Cheap lead terminals can compromise electrical connections. A compression terminal offers the best connection and costs only a few bucks more.
Every auto parts store sells cheap lead battery terminals (see Photo 1). They work. But the clamp plate squashes the cable flat, so you only get partial electrical contact. Instead, get pro-style cast-copper compression terminals. A compression terminal is made from tinned copper and makes full 360-degree contact with the cable. Seal the entire connection with heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion. Buy QuickCable brand battery terminals at NAPA for $3 to $8 each, depending on the cable size. Also buy red and black heat-shrink tubing.
Couldn't have said it better myself. Of course, starting a 2 liter engine doesn't require much current but if $5 was saved here, how much was saved elsewhere?
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