Yes, about half of them require some wiggling to center properly.

The tolerances are very tight and the rear retaining spacers must be used to "raise" plate away from the switch panel allowing the switches to clear. Make sure one or more didn't fall off the back during installation.

Yes, sometimes if the switch plate is a little too high or low vertically, the switches can bind and that means its not centered quite right or one ir more spacers fell off.

Loosen the 4 screws and slightly and wiggle the switch plate, gently, to find the sweet spot, then tighten.

I admit that this is a bit of a PITA but when choosing between a larger opening or tighter tolerance adjustment, we wanted to remove the gap.

Please check these two fixes.

 

Also, the retaining spacers are location specific.

The lower screws use the short spacer and the uppers use the long.

Any of these three items if not installed /checked during install can result in binding.

 

I just donkey-lucked myself into this thread and checked out the website. I've needed something like this since 2004. Wow!

Question to the OP or anyone who has the setup... I just checked and I don't have upper or lower tabs. It's a real drag. Any way take this work for the tab-less masses? I thought I read the site to state that the new setup attaches to the upper tabs.

 

The current kit requires upper tabs to be intact.

We have a bracket kit for those that don't have tabs but its not available yet.

People that have ordered and have broken tabs have just installed anyway because the plate is one piece, its still better than what's there even if not completely attached. Not ideal for us but acceptable for some until the bracket kit is ready.

We expect the bracket kit to be in the $10 price range. We may even be able to include with purchase, I'm trying to cut the brackets from same pattern as plate but no definitive answer on that so I can't guarantee my costs, it may have to be a separate item.

If you decide to mount without the bracket kit for now, we recommend getting two 6-32 nuts and lock washers for upper mounting screws and firmly attaching factory switch plate to our plate, this keeps the switches firmly held in place when depressing. We can help if this isn't clear.

 

That makes sense and thanks for the response. I'm subscribed here so I'll watch for an announcement.

 

Any progress on the D1 plate????

 

Yes, but still not available for sale.

 

Not necessarily asking the OP but that would be fine too... can this be made to work with my console that has broken tabs in passable manner? I would like to wait for a tabless solution but butter it is getting warm again and I am using my windows.

 

Yes, its actually fairly easy but for best results, requires a few extra screws be removed so you can access from inside the center console.

Its a simple fix, attach two tabs of your own from the back to the upper screws. These tabs should be long enough to reach above the upper edge and bent slightly, then add a nut and tighten into place on center console.

I can make a sketch if you need one.

 

I don;'t know why I said "butter"... damned phone. In any case, thanks for the response. I'm going to order one. I am sick of the floppy switches.