Good Deal in ATL
Are you kidding? $2500 for a '96 that doesn't run isn't a good deal. There could be all manner of expensive things wrong with it and it would be hard to know before buying.
It's potentially a good deal, but a real crap shoot.
It's potentially a good deal, but a real crap shoot.
Don't be ridiculous. Don't try and make this out to be a terrible deal. If you got this truck for a good enough price and were able to perform the essentials on your own you could come out smelling like a rose, less than 80k miles, come on
I didn't say it is a terrible deal, I said it's a crap shoot, could be great, could be terrible.
You could get it and find it needs a $75 ignition module, or you could find it needs an engine, transmission, transfer case and diff. Not to mention brake booster or countless other things it's not really possible/easy to test in a non-running vehicle.
It just depends on what you're willing to gamble and/or how much labor you want to spend just on checking things out.. No way would I be willing to gamble $2500 or the time needed for a pre-purchase check just to see if it's an ok deal.
You could get it and find it needs a $75 ignition module, or you could find it needs an engine, transmission, transfer case and diff. Not to mention brake booster or countless other things it's not really possible/easy to test in a non-running vehicle.
It just depends on what you're willing to gamble and/or how much labor you want to spend just on checking things out.. No way would I be willing to gamble $2500 or the time needed for a pre-purchase check just to see if it's an ok deal.
True story about the crap shoot. I didn't pay $2500 for my running, driving 1996 with 100k on it. I paid $1200.
I'd personally guess bad fuel pump as one of the more common reasons that a D1 stops running, but I wouldn't make that gamble at $2500. I'd make it at like $800. That way if it turns out to need an engine, you could MAYBE still part it and break even.
I'd personally guess bad fuel pump as one of the more common reasons that a D1 stops running, but I wouldn't make that gamble at $2500. I'd make it at like $800. That way if it turns out to need an engine, you could MAYBE still part it and break even.
This "deal" sucks. $2500 for a non-running '96 sucks. I got my rough-running(was able to drive it up onto the trailer) '96 for $400. I got my good-running '96 for $700. I got my running '98 with 72,000 miles four years ago for $3000. And none of them had paint faded that badly.
Mileage means nothing if it wasn't maintained. With a Harley Davidson tire cover my guess is all his time/money went into keeping his cycle running, LOL.
Here's rough running '04 for just a bit more. I'd say this is a decent deal.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/cto/3975267305.html
Mileage means nothing if it wasn't maintained. With a Harley Davidson tire cover my guess is all his time/money went into keeping his cycle running, LOL.
Here's rough running '04 for just a bit more. I'd say this is a decent deal.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/cto/3975267305.html
i'll say it....IT's a terrible deal, in fact its no deal at all and certainly would not smell like a "rose" in fact i'd suspect it smells pretty rank about now from the looks of it :-/
Last edited by rewillia; Aug 3, 2013 at 03:53 AM.
Terrible deal. I just bought a non runner for 1000 and it had 3" lift, a-arm spacer, gbr rear axles, Detroit and TT, hd front driveshaft, etc... I bought my 98 LSE non running for 400 bucks in way nicer shape.
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