I will take a look tomorrow. I sent an email top their sales via their website, hopefully they are still in business and keeping up with emails. I still have the invoice for the shaft, but no part number is listed.

Thanks Jafir. Your probably right and I will install fittings on same side, when I get the right joints.

Least I got the pinion seal replaced...

 

So Ive tracked down the part number for the required u-joints. Precision 369 joints. These are larger than the original u-joints fitted to the stock drive shaft. Still no clue about the centering ball kit though and still waiting to hear back from Proshaft llc.

 

I'm pretty sure Proshaft LLC is no longer in business. Their facebook page was lasted updated in 2015 and the one/only comment on their page: "EX-PROSHAFT---HAVE CALLED YOU GUYS A NUMBER OF TIMES ABOUT THE ORDER I PLACES ON 3-11-16 FOR CARRIER BEARING 2004 DODGE DULLY 3500 4 DOOR. YOU ADVERTISE NEXT DAY SHIPPING, ITS BEEN 18 DAYS. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON--WILL TALK TO E-BAY NEXT. DON'T YOU EVER ANSWER YOUR PHONE?" - Posted
Is the stock drive shaft rebuildable? Any reason why I cant fit the existing new u-joints and centering bearing kit to the stock drive shaft, grease it up and throw it on the truck? My understanding is that the double caradan u-joints were not greaseable - thus the likelihood of shaft failure etc. But with new greaseable joints is there any reason why the original shaft cannot be used?

Dont even remember if I still have the original shaft, will have to look around.

 

Take your ProShaft to a local driveline shop and toss him $20 to tell you what parts you need.

 

It is rebuildable and your kit is probably right for it. Replacement shafts usually have 1310 joints where the originals were 1300, unless I am miarememebring the numbers. Sadly, I am an idiot at many things and the centering ball is one of them. The originals were sealed and not greasable. I was told this was to keep water out. I think that is a crap reason.

This is why I have a pile of old driveshafts.

 

Can you elaborate on this for me? Do you mean that the centering ball on the original drive shaft is non greaseable/sealed? The centering ball cant be swapped out with the Moog 617 centering ball kit? Or are you referring to the u-joints? Im just trying to get a clear picture. I have never taken apart the original shaft but I do still have it in a box in the back of my truck. Very tempting to fit the new parts I just bought onto it. There is no local drive shaft shop in the area either.

 

Apologies, Trarii, I was referring to the u joints only. I have not replaced any centering *****. All of the centering ***** I have seen can be greased if you fully articulate then (off the truck), exposing a tiny hole for a needle fitting on a grease gun. I'm actually hoping to learn from your success in that department.

 

Alright so fishEH pointed out that I should contact Dynamic-Drivlines LLC to inquire about part numbers. They said the part number for the centering ball kit is 404-4. According to the Proshaft LLC website the part number for the u-joints is Moog 369.

Im broke though and cannot afford to buy any more parts. $12 here, $20 there, $15 here adds up when your not bring in the $$$. I have all the parts I need to rebuild my original drive shaft so ill do that for now, store my aftermarket shaft and down the road ill order the parts I need for it, rebuild it then sell it and buy a Tom Woods. Ill always retain one spare shaft though. So glad I did not sell my original shaft. Would have been screwed right now.

Rock Auto sells the u-joints but not the centering ball kit. Since I used one of the u-joints its ineligible for a return/exchange. I dont have any more free $$ to spend on additional new parts at the moment so this drive shaft will be stored away for now. I will rebuild my old drive shaft using al the new parts I have. Will also paint it and make a quick write up with high res pictures - since Im very familiar with the process now.

 

BTW I think it is cool that you paint everything. I do the same.

Eg.,

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Haha did not think anyone would catch on... I'm OCD about my truck. When I pulled off the pinion flange and prepped the new seal I wanted to just throw it on and call it good... ... ... BUT I just had to pause, remove the rust and paint it haha. Plus when everything is clean and painted, its easier to find potential leaks.

You block looks good. Glad Im not the only OCD member on here haha.