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The mass market key you need is the ILCO RV4. It's widely available but if you can't find them locally they're easy to find on eBay. There is also a version with a plastic head - ILCO RV4-P.
I like having the proper key. Thank you for the spare info!
Pulled the plugs and they looked good but where only gapped to .030.....something I should have checked when putting the motor in. Stupid stupid stupid lol. Now gapped correctly and rechecked the wires. All checked out as it should be.
Cleared the codes and went for a drive and the o2 codes came up again with an 1174 code.
So I changed the maf sensor with one that I cleaned.
Went for another drive and no codes.....so far.
Another issue showed itself but should be an easy fix. After reinstalling the center console the heater fan is now making a noise like something is hitting it and the cigarette lighter plug is not working.(I do not smoke, just wanted a place for usb charger)
Bit more work done today.. .sadly the p0134 and 135 codes showed up again. Going to try and swap the o2 sensors from the parts truck.
Installed a new muffler and these.....
Not bad for my first attempt I think. But I do not like how the cables have to be loosened up to open the hood....so going to rethink the uppers mounting.
Bit more work done today.. .sadly the p0134 and 135 codes showed up again. Going to try and swap the o2 sensors from the parts truck.
Installed a new muffler and these.....
Not bad for my first attempt I think. But I do not like how the cables have to be loosened up to open the hood....so going to rethink the uppers mounting.
At least I can watch a movie while waiting for a tow.
I really really really hope the transmission is not burned out.
Found the busted line...that part will be easy to fix, replacing the tranny not so much.
Well this sucks.....broken down on the side of the hwy. Transmission went, well the fluid is leaking out and truck is no longer moving.
After just getting this thing going too...only put 400km on it.
That's the worst! How did the cooler line go out? Used transmissions are cheap. You can find one with 100K miles for about $300 so don't give an arm & leg for a replacement.
That's the worst! How did the cooler line go out? Used transmissions are cheap. You can find one with 100K miles for about $300 so don't give an arm & leg for a replacement.
The hose let go under the clamp...needs a new transmission cooler and proper hose.
Good news is it moves under its own power again, tranny seems ok so far. Need to test it on the hwy though.
I hate where the check/filler plug is!
No worries about finding another transmission, I have one from the truck I got the engine out of.....just really not looking forward to doing the swap.
The hose let go under the clamp...needs a new transmission cooler and proper hose.
Good news is it moves under its own power again, tranny seems ok so far. Need to test it on the hwy though.
I hate where the check/filler plug is!
No worries about finding another transmission, I have one from the truck I got the engine out of.....just really not looking forward to doing the swap.
Proper refill procedure? Fill, select each gear, return to neutral/park brake, and refill box again? I hope the orig box survives.
Proper refill procedure? Fill, select each gear, return to neutral/park brake, and refill box again? I hope the orig box survives.
Yup....stupid stupid stupid design lol. Just a pain in the butt to crawl under it whenever I need to check the fluid...even worse if I had to do it on the side of the road.
Guess from now on I'll include my filling tool in my vehicle toolbox.
Actually thinking about it now I could have saved myself the tow cost with some fluid and a normal transmission dipstick/filler. Could have fixed the line and filled from the top...like a jeep hahaha!
10-02-2016, 05:49 PM
