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Yup....stupid stupid stupid design lol. Just a pain in the butt to crawl under it whenever I need to check the fluid...even worse if I had to do it on the side of the road.
Guess from now on I'll include my filling tool in my vehicle toolbox.
Actually thinking about it now I could have saved myself the tow cost with some fluid and a normal transmission dipstick/filler. Could have fixed the line and filled from the top...like a jeep hahaha!
It seems another clever raquet by a vehicle manufacturer to completely screw a consumer over. Trans fill level should be checked reg just like the motor oil but per its design, many won't put forth the extra effort to check the trans fluid so it is left until the sched.maint. So if you have a leaky cooler line or other external damage causing fluid loss at any clip, and the warning light doesn't flash, who's to say you don't burn it up? Did you get a trans warning light at some point??
I was watching a video on a Ford 2.3L VC gasket replace and turned out that engine had been run completely out of oil on 2 occasions and the oil pressure warning lamp never appeared so both times the engine had to be rebuilt. Woman driver, but still no warning lamp or obvious leak (per the narrator) nonethless.
On another note, you can get a trans sump pan from a D1 that will fit the D2 unit and has the dipstick option if you have the desire to source one and install it when you do a filter and fluid change.
It seems another clever raquet by a vehicle manufacturer to completely screw a consumer over. Trans fill level should be checked reg just like the motor oil but per its design, many won't put forth the extra effort to check the trans fluid so it is left until the sched.maint. So if you have a leaky cooler line or other external damage causing fluid loss at any clip, and the warning light doesn't flash, who's to say you don't burn it up? Did you get a trans warning light at some point??
I was watching a video on a Ford 2.3L VC gasket replace and turned out that engine had been run completely out of oil on 2 occasions and the oil pressure warning lamp never appeared so both times the engine had to be rebuilt. Woman driver, but still no warning lamp or obvious leak (per the narrator) nonethless.
On another note, you can get a trans sump pan from a D1 that will fit the D2 unit and has the dipstick option if you have the desire to source one and install it when you do a filter and fluid change.
No warning lights of any kind.
Thanks for the tip about the D1...I know of three forsale in the area. One of them is rotted I'm hoping to get cheap and it has the cld shifter and rear u-joint.
The fun continues.....lol. Installed a better patched hose section only to have it split in two, sourced some hydraulic hose and its now holding. Still searching for a proper cooler and lines.
Still getting o2 and misfires codes once in awhile...have yet to even come close to figuring it out.
And lastly(for now) I had an electrical burning smell and the trailer warning light coming on with the turn indicators and no dash lights.
So today I had a look and found no tail lights either.
Right rear tail light was full of water. Replaced to inner board, sprayed it with sealer, and replaced two fuses now it works...also drilled two small holes on the bottom of the housing to drain any future water.
I looked for transmission cooler lines for you and they are very dear. I'd take yours to a hose shop and I bet they can fix yours better than new, for much cheaper than new. But I'd find an aftermarket cooler before you do that, in case you need some other connectors. Alternatively, contact Abran, Paul Grant, or Will Tillery (all members) and I bet one or all of the three have exactly what you need.
since the last time the disco developed a bad oil leak from the front crank seal and I think the oil sender. The seal has been replaced and now it is a much smaller leak.
It is throwing all kinds of misfire and O2 codes when cold and runs like crap. If I clear the codes after driving for awhile they do not come back until its been shut off for a while. It is also extremely hard on fuel....like 30 bucks to go 100km(91 octane @ 1.222/ltr)
Anyone go through this before? I did several searches and did not find a solid answer or solution. Oil leaks
But the good news is I am back to work so the disco is getting some much needed love...things I should have done before installing the motor but could not afford to. New parts
I have no idea what is causing the misfire codes...hoping new plugs, wires, and swapping out the coils might cure it.
The O2 issue might be exhaust leak related?? So new manifold and lower collector gaskets.
Still waiting for oil pan gasket, upper stream O2 sensors, oil pressure sender, and timing set.
Love Rockauto!!!
Next question is can I lift it and keep the air suspension?
I've really enjoyed your endless journey here. You've sure fought a mean battle with this vehicle and commend you on your veracity. Way to stay the course and never say never.
I'd like to say..."I hope she starts treating you better"...but we all know that will never take place. Because, just when you think everything is okay and you let your guard down...something else happens...lol.
Well just my luck....
There has been an 2000 disco sitting at the local wreckers for 8 months or so I have been looking at, they would not part it out until the insurance claim finalized.
So Friday they informed me it was ready and I said great I'll be up for the windshield Tuesday and I would help them take it out.
Well I got there and they had someone try to get it out before I got there and it broke. BAH! It is the last major piece I need for my disco and they only wanted $100.00 for it. And all the garages I have asked said they will not pass it for safety with the crack the disco has in it now.
On a positive note they sold me a maf sensor for $30. and no more codes(so far) and the line ends I needed to fix the ACE leak.
So as of now...the disco is running great with no more fluid leaks. Only thing left to do is replace the windshield which I cannot afford the almost $700 for a new one, fix the leaking muffler(easy), and finish brushing off the rust on the chassis and undercoat it. Oh, and figure out why the ACE light is still orange...maybe it is because I have been unable to bleed it?
I did a quick tally and so far I am a bit less than $1500.00 into this thing and I could be driving it if it were not for the windshield preventing it from passing a safety.
Been following along, a windshield shouldn't be that much, safe lite did mine all inclusive for $250 just last week. Non heated though
Robert, I'd start by replacing the Bank 1, upstream O2. All the misfires are on Bank 1. The P0155 is Bank 2, so you might want to go ahead and replace the Bank 2 upstream sensor too.
10-10-2016, 12:29 AM
