changed out the front driveshaft on Wednesday evening. it was pretty straight forward and pretty easy. once i had the old driveshaft out it was easy to figure out where the soft chirping sound was coming from. the front u-joint definitely had a catch in it when i spun it by hand.

the old driveshaft was not a factory original. it was a replacement with all the grease zerks. the front u-joint's zerk fitting is tricky to get to and requires a needle fitting to grease it properly. i'm guessing this one never really took any grease. i think i'll have it rebuilt and hang on to it.

the best part of the night was my thirteen year son leaning out the back door and asking me if i wanted some hot cider while i worked. two minutes later he leans back out, "Do you want whiskey in that?" guess i'm doing something right.

also, replaced the throttle body heater. no more leaks.

 

Installed some parts I got from Paul Grant...thank you very much. Top notch service and wow that was some fast delivery. And here I thought I'd have a night off from working on a LR...lol.

New center cup holder, hood latch (inside) and tail light.

I like making these types of small repairs...they make the whole Land Rover seem better.

Brian.

 

Baptism, and an off-road test of my new tyres. 5 hours in Wharton State Forest, NJ. Got the tops of my door sills wet!

 

Since I had the heads off and at the machine shop, dropped exhaust manifolds off to be cleaned, blasted, and ceramic baked in black. Will have valve covers powder coated when they get back from the head shop

 

decided to sell it unfortunately. I really need the $$$

 

Confirmed coolant leak. Three weeks after putting in a new radiator and coolant hoses I discovered a hairline crack in the new housing. I didn't think it was true so I bought the dye and drove it yesterday. Inspected it again. Yep. It's a crack alright. ...and it's getting bigger. Waiting for new lower hose kit to ship.

 

It's starting to look a-lot-like... an engine again

Heads on!

 

Timing and valve train done

Sanity check: See 2nd pic where rocker arms meet the valves. One of them is straight on, and the other one is on the far side .. maybe even a bit off. Is this right?



Sanity check 2: takes a mighty effort now to turn the crank. Yeah, understandable now that the valves are being triggered, but dang, imagine how much gas is spent overcoming the friction of turning the crank


edit: OK I think I'm an idiot and interpreted LH / RH rocker arms as being LH cylinder head / RH cylinder head. So I put all of the 602154's on the RH cylinder, and the 602153's on the LH cylinder... GOD DAMMIT did I do this wrong?
Why aren't they named intake/exhaust arms ???

 

Fixed the rocker shafts today and set the lifter preload. Ended up needing a shall shim for the RH rocker shaft... LH checked out though, weird.

 

Got rid of my 3 amigos finally. Problem was the right front wheel bearing and sensor. Cleared the codes with my Autel AL619. I still have P1590 and the hill descent comes on once in awhile along with a code saying there's an internal fault in the brake light system. Anyone have any ideas? I'm thinking it's the brake switch, I also have a fairly soft brake pedal that I have to dig into.