Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

New D2 New Problems

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 07-14-2017 | 11:13 AM
No Doubt's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 235
From: Alabama + Vegas + Texas
Default

Synthetics offer fantastic protection...from everything that the older design of the D2 motor doesn't need. If you've got a high performance sports car and you hit high rpms in high heat and go long times between oil changes, then synthetic is your go-to product.

I run 15W40 STP conventional because it has lots of detergents and is cheap (so it makes it easy on the pocketbook to change sooner).

The more that you change your oil, especially a high detergent oil, the less dirty your engine internals become.

Less gunk is better.

The heavier 15W in 15W40 oil is better for your oil pressure. I'm about to drop my engine oil sump pan to remove/clean/replace my oil pump pickup tube for some proactive, preventative maintenance for oil pressure.

You don't want low oil pressure in these motors, so I would *NOT* run a thin weight oil like 5w30, either.
 
  #12  
Old 07-14-2017 | 03:03 PM
mogarchy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Default

Well, that cleared things up. Guess I'll go with the synthetic, diesel, conventional blend :P
 
  #13  
Old 07-14-2017 | 04:18 PM
KingKoopa's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 949
Likes: 54
Default

There's actually extensive evidence that directly refutes the old rotella argument and its definitely false that high performance engines are the only thing that benefit from superior oil and proper viscosity choice.

At worse you will do no harm by running full synthetic oil of good quality, at best you will be offering superior protecting to your engine when it needs it most, at startup and under extreme heat (like in Florida).

I'm most likely going to continue to get flack for this opinion for the foreseeable future but the fact is that the same mentality that is driving the rotella craze is the same mentality that had every boy racer in town using royal purple EVERYTHING for years.

 

Last edited by KingKoopa; 07-14-2017 at 04:23 PM.
  #14  
Old 07-14-2017 | 04:25 PM
mogarchy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Default

Thanks for the all advice so far, here's what I've got going on to this point.

Completed
-Cut fresh end on rotted cruise control vacuum hose and re-attached it
-Installed OBD2 bluetooth adapter to use with Torque Pro

Waiting for parts
-Ordered Genuine 180 Degree Thermostat
-Ordered new throttle body heater kit to fix coolant leaking from there
-Ordered new top radiator hose with proper bleeder valve/screw
-Ordered block tester to check for head gasket leak

New Issues Discovered
-Oil leak coming from the lower front of engine - Where do I start with finding the source?
-Tailgate lock actuator only works occasionally - motor sounds every time so maybe something is loose? Will take the trim off and see what I can find.
 
  #15  
Old 07-14-2017 | 05:33 PM
mogarchy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by KingKoopa
There's actually extensive evidence that directly refutes the old rotella argument and its definitely false that high performance engines are the only thing that benefit from superior oil and proper viscosity choice.

At worse you will do no harm by running full synthetic oil of good quality, at best you will be offering superior protecting to your engine when it needs it most, at startup and under extreme heat (like in Florida).
This makes sense to me and I am skeptical of using a diesel oil. If I do go with synthetic - does 10w40 make the most sense for hot climate? Is brand important?
 
  #16  
Old 07-14-2017 | 06:23 PM
No Doubt's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 235
From: Alabama + Vegas + Texas
Default

#1: Royal Purple is not a good product. I've only seen failures with it.

#2: yes, synthetic offers superior protection. The problem isn't the synthetic oil...the problem is human nature...because people who pony up the extra $ for synthetic oil tend to not change their oil as often as people who use conventional oil.

#3: the big benefits of conventional oil are that it is cheap so it is easy to convince yourself to change your oil often (which keeps your internals less gunky) and conventional oils often have more/better detergents for keeping your internals cleaner.

*there is also a ZDDP angle for older engines

Originally Posted by KingKoopa
There's actually extensive evidence that directly refutes the old rotella argument and its definitely false that high performance engines are the only thing that benefit from superior oil and proper viscosity choice.

At worse you will do no harm by running full synthetic oil of good quality, at best you will be offering superior protecting to your engine when it needs it most, at startup and under extreme heat (like in Florida).

I'm most likely going to continue to get flack for this opinion for the foreseeable future but the fact is that the same mentality that is driving the rotella craze is the same mentality that had every boy racer in town using royal purple EVERYTHING for years.

 
  #17  
Old 07-14-2017 | 10:45 PM
Dave03S's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,748
Likes: 505
From: Seattle, Wa
Default

Diesel oils are fine for these engines, the fact that Rotella is rated for diesels just means more detergents, which you need with a vintage 1964 designed motor.

As mentioned if you know going in that you are going to change your oil on frequent intervals there is no point in spending $80 on the oil change when you can spend $20 for a darn good oil that your engine will literally love.

Do not be afraid to use a diesel engine oil. It's just oil. No magic beans.
 

Last edited by Dave03S; 07-14-2017 at 10:50 PM.
The following users liked this post:
No Doubt (07-14-2017)
  #18  
Old 07-15-2017 | 09:48 PM
mogarchy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Default

I did my block test today and am super happy it stayed blue, no yellow or even slight color change.

I diddled my AC nipples and got them draining again.

I will change the oil and filter and bleed the coolant Monday and hopefully be able to get back on the road.

Thanks for all the tips so far, I'm sure I'll be back for more.
 
  #19  
Old 07-16-2017 | 08:17 PM
matt3502's Avatar
Winching
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 745
Likes: 141
From: Fairfield County, CT
Default

You may have to bleed the coolant multiple times to get all the air out of the system. It has taken me as many as four times to fully purge the air.
 
  #20  
Old 07-24-2017 | 02:36 PM
mogarchy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Default

Can someone help interpret this failed test? It is from my BlueDriver ODBII scanner. Thanks!



If it's helpful, I converted the HEX to Decimal and it comes out as:

Value: 1002
Max: 1000
 


Quick Reply: New D2 New Problems



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:28 AM.