Thoughts on temp spikes with AC on
#21
Will post pics tomorrow. I did use the 390’s. Like 85 a piece thru Jegs. Free shipping.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The fans come pushing the wrong direction. However they’re easily reversible. Directions comes with the fan how to do. Takes two min to reverse the fan blade directions. Don’t switch the wires.
Mounting is is indeed interesting and required some thinking. First remove two bolts on each side of trans fluid cooler. Then slide it down a few inches. Otherwise you are NOT getting the fans out. New fans will not fit existing mounting tabs so I used the mounting kit that comes with each fan. Looks like:
Theyre meant to run between radiator fins but that’s no go. So.... I bent all four mounting tabs forward and carefully pulled one of each of the mounting “dreadlocks” thru the threaded hole on each tab. Then after all four are pulled thru I bent the tabs back to almost normal. Then I ran a dreadlock thru each corner of the fan and worked the fan in there. There is NOT a lot of room to work with but doable. Right side is harder due to hood release crap.
After fan is lined up slide the locking tabs down the dreadlocks until flush and fan is firm. Word of caution, it is HARD to pull the dreadlocks thru the mounting tabs. Little room to even get them started and they are like literally the width of the bolt holes. It’s slow going, but again, doable. Use pliers. Pull an inch, reset, pull an inch, repeat....
Also be sure to spin the fan blades in the housing before you totally lock up the lock tabs and make sure you don’t bind the fan housings. You’ll know. If blade spins free you’re good. If not, reposition. Repeat for both sides and crimp wires. Blue to blue and black to black.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The fans come pushing the wrong direction. However they’re easily reversible. Directions comes with the fan how to do. Takes two min to reverse the fan blade directions. Don’t switch the wires.
Mounting is is indeed interesting and required some thinking. First remove two bolts on each side of trans fluid cooler. Then slide it down a few inches. Otherwise you are NOT getting the fans out. New fans will not fit existing mounting tabs so I used the mounting kit that comes with each fan. Looks like:
Theyre meant to run between radiator fins but that’s no go. So.... I bent all four mounting tabs forward and carefully pulled one of each of the mounting “dreadlocks” thru the threaded hole on each tab. Then after all four are pulled thru I bent the tabs back to almost normal. Then I ran a dreadlock thru each corner of the fan and worked the fan in there. There is NOT a lot of room to work with but doable. Right side is harder due to hood release crap.
After fan is lined up slide the locking tabs down the dreadlocks until flush and fan is firm. Word of caution, it is HARD to pull the dreadlocks thru the mounting tabs. Little room to even get them started and they are like literally the width of the bolt holes. It’s slow going, but again, doable. Use pliers. Pull an inch, reset, pull an inch, repeat....
Also be sure to spin the fan blades in the housing before you totally lock up the lock tabs and make sure you don’t bind the fan housings. You’ll know. If blade spins free you’re good. If not, reposition. Repeat for both sides and crimp wires. Blue to blue and black to black.
#22
Oh yeah, the fans are not like 10” perfect diameter, 360 degrees either. The housings are like 10.5” one way and 11.5” the other. You want the taller side going up and down. They’re is NOT a lot of room to work with. It is snug as a smug bug in a rug man.
Whats cool is when you run them parked with hood open, if you put your hand over the top gap between the two radiators you’ll feel the air surging out. They sure do push harder than my old ones did.
Whats cool is when you run them parked with hood open, if you put your hand over the top gap between the two radiators you’ll feel the air surging out. They sure do push harder than my old ones did.
#24
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