So I Tried Spikes Straight 30 weight
Yup I went to the store and got some rotella straight 30w. I know wrong time of the year. But its not cold down here.
Well I wont be using it agian only because I realize I put 1000m a week on my truck. Ill be changing it agian in 3 weeks.
It seems to idle smoother? Also NO MORE OIL LEAKS. Some times it seems like it takes a little while longer for the oil to start pumping at startup. You can hear this noise stop right when the oil pressure light goes off.
BUTTT...
Im loosing about 1.5 MPG. I understand thicker oil could POSSIBLY mean more resistance on the oil pump, but I really am seeing a increase in consumption coming from synthetic m1 10-30
Well I wont be using it agian only because I realize I put 1000m a week on my truck. Ill be changing it agian in 3 weeks.
It seems to idle smoother? Also NO MORE OIL LEAKS. Some times it seems like it takes a little while longer for the oil to start pumping at startup. You can hear this noise stop right when the oil pressure light goes off.
BUTTT...
Im loosing about 1.5 MPG. I understand thicker oil could POSSIBLY mean more resistance on the oil pump, but I really am seeing a increase in consumption coming from synthetic m1 10-30
I am running 5w30 castrol syntec (because I get it cheap at work) with BG MOA and I see alot of consumption. Problem I have with 30w is the potential damage starving the upper end while the pressure builds.
not to hijack but for what it's worth.....I once ran Castrol "high mileage" 5w-30 in the winter here and it virtually stopped all the oil leaks. When I went back to 15-40 the next summer .....the leaks reappeared. Supposedly the HM oil has seal swelling additives, and apparrently it worked, at least for a while.
I am not a fan of the higher weight unless you are extreme duty. I run RP 10W30 year round. Higher mileage motors will have sludge and varnish blocking the oil passages. If you run a synthetic, they have a stronger film strength and you can run a lighter oil. I know people go back and forth on what they think weights should be, but I will throw my 2 cents in and say 30 weight will take a bit to start pumping on startup....when you need it the most.
I do agree with running diesel additive packages, and the RP I run is a blend for transportation use. I realize for most, the cost is prohibitive, but if you are running synthetic, or even a blend, 10W30 is the proper weight.. It does get up to 100+ here, so the temps have been proven. Also with 10W40 in the summer, I get a slight tick. No tick on 10W30.
I do agree with running diesel additive packages, and the RP I run is a blend for transportation use. I realize for most, the cost is prohibitive, but if you are running synthetic, or even a blend, 10W30 is the proper weight.. It does get up to 100+ here, so the temps have been proven. Also with 10W40 in the summer, I get a slight tick. No tick on 10W30.
I have absolutely no problems with the HD-30, my oil light goes out before I release the key.
I dont leak either, when I first switched to the Rotella she leaked, but after a oil change or 2 she quit.
I will be going back to the 5w-40 next oil change because it will be winter time.
I dont leak either, when I first switched to the Rotella she leaked, but after a oil change or 2 she quit.
I will be going back to the 5w-40 next oil change because it will be winter time.
Its 100 miles a day to and from work 4 days a week. 400m and then on the weekend I usually drive about 300 more so maybe I exaggerated a little bit. 700m is more realistic.
Yea so it's really about 125$
I know I wish I had a more efficient ride SOMETIMES the cost doesn't bother me too much though as it's only about 70$ a week. And I'm making 1k, because I'm only working 40hrs. Normally it's 50hrs.
And to those who say I should move closer, I can't because the job moves about every 1-12 months
I know I wish I had a more efficient ride SOMETIMES the cost doesn't bother me too much though as it's only about 70$ a week. And I'm making 1k, because I'm only working 40hrs. Normally it's 50hrs.
And to those who say I should move closer, I can't because the job moves about every 1-12 months
I did have a 500 mile/week commute when I lived in San Francisco (to San Jose and back 5 days/week), but that was in a Honda Civic, so I didn't sweat the fuel or maintenance costs.

Maybe you could find a used Civic and drive that into the ground and give your Rover a break.


