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The sound is definitely more pronounced with ear next to the lugnuts, as opposed to in the wheel well.
Thinking its the hub/bearing - but its happening on both front wheels - odd for both of them to go out at the same time?
Couple days ago I was hearing a clank only when moving, but not accelerating. Did not hear that noise today... just this squeaking, like an old mattress.
Unless you have someone 'humping' on a mattress in the back of the D2 it sounds like you have problems with your CV joints. It's unusual to have both sides let go at once.
Do you have non standard wheels fitted?
Do you have wheel spacers fitted?
Are the wheel bearings and CV joints the originals?
Have you fitted anything to the front drive train that is non standard?
Haha no humping going on... I save that for the bedroom
- I have terrafirma beadlock 16x7 wheels
- No spacers
- CV and hubs are originals (as far as I know)
- Tom woods Double cardon driveshaft is the only thing I can think of. The only work I've done recently is 3" RTE springs.
I did a little research and I think you are right about the CV joint. It also explains the clanking I was hearing the other day when I was coasting.
How bad is the job? The part is cheap enough, $30 (x2), but is there a chance the axle shaft would also need to get replaced? The parts manual suggests the axle and CV joints are normally sold as a complete unit.
Most places recommend doing the axle and CV at the same time. I think it's just because the job is simpler that way.
It's also essential to replace the boot when you do anything with a CV joint.
Jeff, do a simple test on the CV's, clamp the diff flange solid using a G clamp and rod, check the play in the diff first and movement at the wheel. Then check the CV for movement whilst turning the steering wheel from lock to lock slowly (you'll need help with this, that's what wives are for)
TIP: If the CV's are shot, replace the whole drive shaft complete not just the CV's as the driveshafts will probably be worn also. Also replace very carefully the inner drive shaft seal just behind the CV's. Take a special note of which way the old one comes out as they are a rarity. Use genuine LR Corteco seals as replacements not other rubbish.
Sorry Jeff, I didn't answer your main question. It takes a few hours to do both CV's/shafts as you'll have to strip off the brake caliper, rotor and carrier for access. I reckon 2-3 hours per side to finish the job completely including a shaft seal.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Nov 10, 2017 at 03:53 PM.