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When I first bought my Disco I had a brief oil light flicker after driving on the freeway and coming to a stop at a light. I switched to Rotella and it has never come back, not even a little bit. That was over a year and second oil change ago. I used the regular non-synthetic Rotella. Rotella and Champion spark plugs just work in these trucks. And yesterday it started just fine at 11 degrees outside. My dash cam wouldn’t work and the Bluetooth kept dropping due to the cold, but the Land Rover engine and electronics worked just fine at that temperature.
Last edited by JimmyChooToo; Jan 3, 2018 at 11:06 AM.
When I first bought my Disco I had a brief oil light flicker after driving on the freeway and coming to a stop at a light. I switched to Rotella and it has never come back, not even a little bit. That was over a year and second oil change ago. I used the regular non-synthetic Rotella. Rotella and Champion spark plugs just work in these trucks.
I think he has always run Rotella 15w40 in his truck since that engine was put in. I live in a very similar climate to his and I run Rotella T6 5w40 in both my DII and FZJ80. Maybe that would be good to switch to? Even if just for the fall / winter?
I think he has always run Rotella 15w40 in his truck since that engine was put in. I live in a very similar climate to his and I run Rotella T6 5w40 in both my DII and FZJ80. Maybe that would be good to switch to? Even if just for the fall / winter?
That is correct. Been running Rotella 15w40 all year long, every year. 3k oil changes always. T6 5w40 is what I have in mind however. Plenty of information available online that suggests using a lower weight oil in colder climates.
Yeah...just not 0 weight.
That is for modern fuel efficiant engines with tight tolerances.
And race engines, for every available hp, but also rebuilt or blown often.
Oil pump is bad, just like has been said several times above.
But I will say it again that you hurt that engine running it as long as you did in the videos.
Slap a $100 pump in it and drive it until a rod exits the block.
Oil pump is bad, just like has been said several times above.
But I will say it again that you hurt that engine running it as long as you did in the videos.
Slap a $100 pump in it and drive it until a rod exits the block.
I never drove the truck with the oil lamp on. I needed to make a video of the engine sounds I was hearing plus I wanted to warm up the engine just long enough so i can feel the oil filter to see if it was cold or hot. Whatever damage is done, could have been much worse had I been driving the truck. Still does not explain why the pump failed.
As I said before I already purchased a new pump, gaskets and spare front cover. When the shop decides to work on my truck I will have an update.
So what sort of parts can I expect to replace in worse case scenario? I dont know much about internal components of engines (yet). I know there are various forms of bearings, rods, pistons, camshaft, gasekts, rockers etc. If I can get a good price for a rebuild of potentially damaged components then I might take that route. I looked on Lucky8 website and noticed that some of the bearing kits have different options available for my truck. 010 or 020 for example. What do these things mean? If someone could help me put a list together of the components most likely damaged then I can figure out if its worth getting done or not.
The oil pump failed because they tend to break in those engines. Just the way it is.
If the internals are damaged...it's everything.
You may/may not be able to replace parts without machine shop work.
When you see different numbers on bearings, they are standard size, or over size.
Over size bearings are for when the crank journals need turned down, smoothed out and made smaller from damage. Same with rings.
Lots of other parts in there too.
The .010 and .020 are undersize bearing shells. You do not need to worry about trying to purchase them now for multiple reasons. They have been replaced already when the short block was rebuilt and you do not know what size was required at that point. If there is damage now: you do not know what it will take to correct it or what size will be needed. And you do not know if there is any damage.
If you are so worried about the time it is taking this shop: why was the vehicle taken there? And why was it left there after you decided their service was not acceptable? I would hate to be the owner of the shop because it looks like they are already being blasted before they even start to work on your vehicle. Maybe they see the writing and are not in a rush at this point or maybe they are really that good and are very busy at this point. I would rather wait for good than to have it rushed with further headaches later.
