R380 repair questions
#22
Progress report-
I got the spacer off, by using a thing I made from Chinese puller parts combined with Snap-on Puller parts.
Everything is apart and degreased. I ordered new seals, and replacements for the dead bearings.
What I still need are the parts indicated by arrows in the following diagram:
parts
The inner gear ring is the hard part. The three little synchro plates are probably not too hard to find, and the baulk ring for 4/5 gear is available. I am going to try to get the baulk ring ordered today.
If anyone has a lead on the inner gear, I would be thrilled to hear it.
T
I got the spacer off, by using a thing I made from Chinese puller parts combined with Snap-on Puller parts.
Everything is apart and degreased. I ordered new seals, and replacements for the dead bearings.
What I still need are the parts indicated by arrows in the following diagram:
parts
The inner gear ring is the hard part. The three little synchro plates are probably not too hard to find, and the baulk ring for 4/5 gear is available. I am going to try to get the baulk ring ordered today.
If anyone has a lead on the inner gear, I would be thrilled to hear it.
T
#23
This should get you to the correct part numbers. Some are VIN specific.
Allbrit.de - Ersatzteile für LAND ROVER & MG ROVER
#9 Baulk Ring -- FTC 5018
at Amazon.... says genuine and that would make this far cheaper than anywhere else. Genuine would generally run $95 (LRDIRECT.com) to $136 (Roversnorth)
#3 Plate Synchro -- FTC 4171
$6 at LRDIRECT.
#1 (which seems to include #3) Maindshaft Synchro Ring FTC5101 (subject to a VIN check for compatibility)
https://bearmach.com/mainshaft-synchro-ring-ftc5101
LRdirect has the Britpart brand replacement. Britpart (aka ****part) does not have a good reputation and I'd strongly advise against using one of their parts in a critical application such as this.
I'd also seek out one of the used parts vendors assemblers such as Paul Grant or Will Tillery to see if they have any supply.
Allbrit.de - Ersatzteile für LAND ROVER & MG ROVER
#9 Baulk Ring -- FTC 5018
at Amazon.... says genuine and that would make this far cheaper than anywhere else. Genuine would generally run $95 (LRDIRECT.com) to $136 (Roversnorth)
#3 Plate Synchro -- FTC 4171
$6 at LRDIRECT.
#1 (which seems to include #3) Maindshaft Synchro Ring FTC5101 (subject to a VIN check for compatibility)
https://bearmach.com/mainshaft-synchro-ring-ftc5101
LRdirect has the Britpart brand replacement. Britpart (aka ****part) does not have a good reputation and I'd strongly advise against using one of their parts in a critical application such as this.
I'd also seek out one of the used parts vendors assemblers such as Paul Grant or Will Tillery to see if they have any supply.
#24
Thanks for the tip! I grabbed the last baulk ring from Amazon, the numbers match.
I also properly laid out and test fit all the bits and pieces.
I am beginning to have some confidence that I will be able to actually get it back together without having a bunch of pieces left over, or too few.
I also properly laid out and test fit all the bits and pieces.
I am beginning to have some confidence that I will be able to actually get it back together without having a bunch of pieces left over, or too few.
#25
If you are unfamiliar with AM rover parts PLEASE heed this advice. This is solid info. Find ANY other make if you can.
#27
Does anyone recommend albrit.de? They seem to have the parts, at a decent price.
I am not really all that cheap, but this car spent a decade parked in a pasture, home to mice and other wildlife. That is after a decade of use as a farm truck.
But it has always started when required, and drove fairly well, even with the current transmission damage. The leaking fluid was what concerned me enough to put it on the lift and start pulling pieces off. Assuming I get it back on the road, it is going to be driven by one of my kids, and will likely be destroyed, as happens with teenagers and cars.
In the meantime, the kid is driving my Mercedes AMG, and I have to drive one of my collector cars.
But thanks for the helpful responses here. I will keep looking for a few days before I order parts.
T
I am not really all that cheap, but this car spent a decade parked in a pasture, home to mice and other wildlife. That is after a decade of use as a farm truck.
But it has always started when required, and drove fairly well, even with the current transmission damage. The leaking fluid was what concerned me enough to put it on the lift and start pulling pieces off. Assuming I get it back on the road, it is going to be driven by one of my kids, and will likely be destroyed, as happens with teenagers and cars.
In the meantime, the kid is driving my Mercedes AMG, and I have to drive one of my collector cars.
But thanks for the helpful responses here. I will keep looking for a few days before I order parts.
T
if you want good parts, go to Evolution (EAS)
Shop4autoparts-Land Rover Parts & Spares
they actually PRODUCE the original parts for R380 and Lt77
Say hello from me, I have visited the factory years ago and never ordered a gearbox part elsewhere since
they are very helpful.
Albrit has fantastic catalogues
greetings from CR
#29
I have all my parts, as far as I can figure. I did end up repairing the mainshaft, where the tip was broken off. Here is a view of the repair:
The new piece is tool steel, and is inserted a little over an inch into the mainshaft, just short of the lube oil hole for 5th gear.
A question though- do the bearing outer races for both the input shaft and layshaft go on after the gearcase is installed, and held down by the front cover? This is how it appears to work, but I want to be sure. The wire stop in the bearing race for the layshaft is not clearly shown in the rave manual.
Any help appreciated.
The new piece is tool steel, and is inserted a little over an inch into the mainshaft, just short of the lube oil hole for 5th gear.
A question though- do the bearing outer races for both the input shaft and layshaft go on after the gearcase is installed, and held down by the front cover? This is how it appears to work, but I want to be sure. The wire stop in the bearing race for the layshaft is not clearly shown in the rave manual.
Any help appreciated.
#30