I originally planned to put together a detailed engine rebuild video series... but it being my first rebuild, I ended up finding it too difficult to do both at once.... However, I did record a video of using the bore gauge

Videos - unedited


Steps
1. Add spacers to the gauge until it is slightly larger than the bore
2. Zero it in on a micrometer for better accuracy
3. Measure the bore by finding the inflection point of the needle, counting the # of revolutions from measurement #2, then subtract it from the micrometer reading. I drew up a template to record measurements on, and took 3 measurements @ 120 degrees apart, in the top, middle, and bottom of the bore, for a total of 72 measurements

Some photos

 

Ah shoot I totally missed that you were doing rods/mains, not cylinder bores.

Oh well, steps are mostly the same. Recommend double checking with plastigauge too before you lube things up. Honestly, I think I mic'ed the crank to rule that variable out, then I just used plastigauge to make sure the numbers matched up.

 

I'm going to bore gage mains and rods, and mic the crank.
I'm not going to bother with plastigage, as .002 is about as low as it can check, and who knows just how accurately.
Thanks

 

Well, I don't have a large enough bore gage, so I ordered one, 2 weeks ago. Long story short, lost in mail, and waiting on my refund.
So, I was able to borrow a telescoping i.d gage.
Main and rod clearances All at .002 !
Polished crank and standard bearings.
I am happy with the results, and hopefully will start assembling the engine in the next few days.
I will start an engine build thread with pics and details.

 

Very nice toolroom kit Jeff, I wish I could afford that little lot. Everything from slip gauges to bore gauges, micrometers, dial gauges etc etc all pure magic equipment for a engine rebuild.

All you need now is a certified surface plate/table and some paired Vee blocks and you have it all. I'm soooo envious

 

Thanks, I did splurge a bit... hobbies I tell ya! I was seriously considering buying vee blocks, but I was at wits end with all the tool purchases, so I opted to simply use the engine block as a substitute. The micrometers were actually pretty cheap. What I did was pick up a cheap certified set of gage blocks, and checked all the micrometers for accuracy.

Ping pong table held up pretty well haha, but I have since moved, so no more luxuriously large work surface for me anymore. Also no more engine rebuilds for me (fingers crossed)

What I liked about the engine rebuild is you can simply measure and assemble it once and be done (except for the quick task of plasti-gauging the crank), contrasted with this transfer case rebuild I'm about to get started on, in order to set pre-load correctly you could be assembling, disassembling, and reassembling 5+ times. Center diff has 2 thrust washers with 12+ sizes, plus a shim behind the bearing race, intermediate shaft has 12+ sizes of collapsible spacers, and the input gear has varying shim sizes as well. Punching bearing races out and in multiple times does not sound like fun, and prone to damaging something.

 

Jeff, I'm about to venture into the same 'murky' world of a transfer case rebuild, I have identified a whine and oil leak from the transfer box and it sounds like a rebuild is in order. Unfortunately there is little data on the gear train clearances so it's rather trial and error to arrive at the ideal results needed. It sounds like we should compare notes on this one!

There is a transfer case specific LT230 rebuild manual around on the internet which has a more comprehensive detailed write up in it than RAVE, I'll dig a copy out and e-mail it to you.

PS: Jeff, I have just 'dug' around in my D2 Data and found the specific Rebuild data for the LT230 transfer box, unfortunately it's for the LT230T Defender box which is the same, it's the latest update for the rebuild.

 

Indeed! For manuals, I currently have:

- D2 workshop manual 6th edition (2003)
- LT230Q Overhaul 2nd edition (1997)
- LT230T Overhaul 2nd edition (1997)

While the Q (quiet - improved) and T (original LT230) manuals are more detailed, there are minute differences from the D2 manual (LT230SE). It's a bit overwhelming trying to cross reference them all, so I'm thinking about just sticking to the D2 manual, and employing some of the tricks from the Land Rover Toolbox video series. On the other hand, I'm putting in some gears designed for the Q/T (from Ashcroft) so who knows which manual to follow!

Sorry for the hijack, Sixpack

 

Hijack away, I might learn something!

 

May I ask what you found out? I'm about to install my ground crank and .10 bearings. I'm curious to see what the plastigauge will say. All my life the plastigauge clearances were usually fine between .001 and .003 max.