2003 Discovery S - 108,000 +
As the title reads, is there any markings or indications that would be marked on the engine to tell if my heads have ever been changed? I usually read the heads going around 100k and I bought it at 97.5k. I've kinda just been waiting for it but it still runs super smooth and strong, no smoke out of the tailpipe, no milkshake under the oil cap. I hope I'm not jinxing myself by asking about all this. What's the longest one of these engines have gone before the heads needed replacing? Is there a difference between changing them as preventive maintenance or just waiting for them to go?

I also have a P0441 code that comes on every now and then that I usually just clear and it stays off for a few hundred miles but now it's coming on more often with my increased driving. I just started university and the commute is over 60 miles a day, half highway half in town. I know from reading this is usually a purge valve or something like that, cheap part no problem, but is there anything else I should check before I buy that part.

Also how important is the front drive shaft upgrade? I read somewhere that it was only a real big deal if I lift the truck but mine is all stock, correct me if I'm wrong but I should be good?

I want to keep my truck as strong as possible for as long as possible. Thanks for the help I know its a lot of questions.

 

haha.. nice to see that there are other Berthas on the forum

For the drive shaft, it's not so much whether it's lifted or not but whether you have greasable zerks. Most enthusiasts have theirs rebuilt or buy a new one from Lucky8, etc. What happens is the drive shaft/u-joints dry out and become brittle causing the drive shaft to disengage and flail into your transmission. You'll definitely want to get that rebuilt or replaced.

I know that some of the guys on here recommend looking at the head bolts to see if they've been roughed up or marked from a previous head gasket job. Someone else should chime in here soon.

Good luck and have fun with Bertha!

 

That's awesome, another Bertha ahha. I didn't think there were any others!

Thanks for that info, I'll put that on my important list. Do they have a mileage where they usually go or are there any symptoms of the drive shaft about to break loose?

 

 

My 03 went to 140k before the original head gaskets went - never overheated. Blew between cylinder 5 and 7, no coolant leakage, just lost compression due to huge gap in gasket.



No downside to waiting till they blow except the overheating which can be caused by low coolant. As long as the headgaskets don't blow so badly that the combustion gases are excessively pressurizing the cooling system, it still won't overheat. I have had two with small blown headgaskets where it was drinking a little coolant, neither overheated. The #1 cause of blown headgaskets as well as other major engine problems is overheating. The #1 cause of overheating is low coolant level. Frequent causes of low coolant level are old hoses, worn out water pump, and aging radiator tank and overflow tank. If you want to prevent an overheat check the coolant every Saturday morning and every hour on a long drive and replace all those 15 year old hoses, radiator, and coolant tank (total cost of maybe $300 - much cheaper than headgasket repair if you are paying someone). BTW, the heads don't go bad, only the gaskets.

Check your driveshaft, if you don't have both grease nipples you need to replace the driveshaft ($100 on ebay). They do give you warning before they go, but not a ton of warning. They will start chirping at low speeds. Failure mode is catastrophic destruction of transmission, driveshaft, and transfer case. Once you get the new driveshaft grease it every oil change.

 

Mine started chirping at low speeds and I noticed quite a big clunk as I shifted into reverse. I also had some clunking occur while driving down the road during areas of transmission shift (almost a drag of sorts). I had over 100k in miles when it occurred.

 

 

The dimples in the block and heads are so that the gasket grips the block and heads and does not get pushed around by the combustion pressure. I am tempted to try to Cometic gaskets, but honestly I doubt if even the Fel-pro or Victor Reinz would ever fail. I think the OEM LR gaskets were just substandard frankly and the technology has improved considerabley in the intervening 18 yrs.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I guess I'll just keep an eye on everything as usual and start doing my reading work on the drive shaft.