So
of all the guys here that have supposedly rebuilt their engines, apparently no one replaced these??
I'm sensing alot of machine shops rebuilt these engines, not the guys saying they did.

I really hate this f'ing land rover.
I'm ready to reassemble the engine, but can't, until I figure out what's going on with these seals.
Are they right?
How to install without damaging?
Why oem and aftermarket look so different?
Why no one here knows?
Why youtube, google, and any of the LR forums don't have any info?
Somebody has to know...you would think.

 

I remember them sticking out 2mm or so. Another member trimmed his and got leaks.

I’ll try and dig through my seals box to see if I have a set I can snap a photo of.

 

Thank you sir.
I found a set of oem seals on ebay, last pair, and they should be here by the 12th.
(Thanks again to Jeff Blake for posting a link for oem seals, as I was then able to search and find a set in the U.S)
As for the AllMakes seals, they literally are twice as thick as the cap groove(I have 2 pairs, both the same, and they look identical to all online pics of them I find). There is no possible way they will install without shearing off, or pushing out as the cap is drawn down into the block.
I would agree that they will leak if cut too.
There is no practical way to cut the AllMakes seals precisely. And who knows what that cut size should be.
Slightly more than the cap groove depth, but just how much, who is to say, given how the rubber will compress.
I hope thickness and trimming is not an issues with new oem seals.
The old oem seals that were in the cap appeared to not be trimmed or modified in any way.
I apollogise for my frustrstions, but I cannot comprehend people using these junk AllMakes crucifix seals.
They ARE garbage!!!

 

FYI OEM is not the same as genuine.

Relevant info from manual. You have the manual right? 4th edition engine overhaul.

"CAUTION: Seals must protrude approximately 1.5 mm (0.05 in) above bearing cap face, do not trim off excess
material at this stage."

"13. Trim off excess material from rear main bearing cap cruciform seals."

 

I looked through all my rebuild photos and the best one I could find of the genuine cruciform seals is this.


You can see them just below the yellow piston ring packets

 

I do have the manual.
The seals in your picture are like what I have now, almost perfectly straight.
What was in it, and what I ordered look like a cross.
Which is also what the manual shows.
The straight seals I have are not going in.
No way, no how.
They will shear off or push out. They are too thick.
.005 must protrude above the bearing face, and not be trimmed at this point. Which to me, confirms that the trimmed surface is indeed the 2 tips that will point towards the inside bottom of the oil pan.
That the sides must fit...which they don't.
The small "knots" in the center of the straight seals, are all that is there, as opposed to the molded cross of the others.
So, if that "knot" shifts any at all during installation, it pulls it in the cross section of the cap, inviting a leak.
What a pathetic design.
I cannot belive I have done so much, and spent so much money, only to come down to being stuck over a pair of seals.
God help me, whenever I fix everything on this pos, it is leaving my house forever.
I regret the day I bought this junk.
What a cool vehicle, so **** poorly made.

 

I used the ones similar to your photo. Used a large wood working clamp to squish them flush with the bearing cap and tapped it in. Be sure to put gasket sealer as shown in the manual.

 

I am about to do this step. I bought OEM and genuine, just in case. Waiting for them to arrive.

Does anyone have final advice, including which ones to use?

Thanks.

 

Black RTV in the grooves before putting the seals in.
More RTV on the other side of the seals.

 

You back six pack? How are things going?