I checked all the ones on driver side. All good. Haven't checked passenger side yet

Yes, I've cleared codes many times now and same ones always come back immediately.

Just used paper clip to jump inertia switch but no luck....

 

I have heard of Rovers doing this after sitting for a long time. I guess the ECM and the BCU stop communicating after being without power for a while.
One test that will tell you whether or not your engine computer is working at all is to check an easy to get to sensor like the throttle position sensor and see if you can find 5v on one of those wires with the key in the ON position.
The whole problem with all of this is that you need a dealer level scan tool to get the computers going and communicating again. I wonder what the testbook does anyway? Maybe it has a way of starting up the 5v reference. I'm guessing it's something like that, that needs to get started up again.
Maybe you could verify that you have power at the inertia switch too. If there is no power there, the fuel pump won't turn on no matter what.

 

Any rpm when cranking?

 

Used scanner to clear codes, gave it a few minutes, read codes again - same codes.

Looked at all fuses under dash i could find (many on drivers' side, none on passenger side), under both seats and all in engine compartment - none blown or even blackened or anything g- all seem brand new. Pulled them all.

Looking for more ideas...

Anywhere I can download wiring diagrams for free?

@Jafir - no rpm's showing on start (which makes me think CPS) but, I juuuust pulled the cap on the CPS and double-checked the sequence of spacer and nuts... really hoping i don't have to pull the whole thing to check for fouled needle on the CPS but, might not be able to avoid it - luckily i have the old one (if, in fact that would be an option..). Is there a way to check that the CPS sensor is good from fuses? I thought I read somewhere about that....

Next I'm gonna check the throttle position sensor for 5v when key is in ignition to see if it's getting any juice... if not getting 5v, i gotta tow it to a dealer... if so, i gotta test CPS somehow (or break my wrists trying to pull the new one and install the old).

more to come - keep ideas coming please (i'm at the VERY least, learning a ton).

 

http://www.landroverresource.com

Download the file with the "large file warning" it has wiring.

Also, if you aren't getting spark, we need to know if you are getting any rpm signal while cranking. Does the tach move? Live data on the scanner? If so does it show any rpm while cranking? If not I'd suspect crank sensor, fuse box, or the wiring.

 

Also the connector for the crank sensor can be kind of hard to connect because of where it is. You might double check that if you haven't already.

 

You know, I was thinking, because the crank sensor and the TPS both use the 5v reference, here's something to look for. Go to the live data on the scan tool. Then see if there is any reading on the TPS when you press down on the gas pedal. If so, then try cranking the engine and see if it shows any RPM in the scan tool display. If you don't have either of these then you probably have no 5v reference coming out of the computer. The 5v reference is what ALL of the sensors use. It's all the same circuit in most vehicles.

 

Bummer - don't have a live-data reader, only cheap-o reader.

That said, I just checked inertia switch with multimeter and it functions correctly and is off.

Also tested voltage on MAF and it gave back a low reading (.7 volts) so, will test with another multi-meter later today.

Also, tested fuel pump relay with ignition on and got nothing at all.

I will double/triple check the cps connector later today and report back.

Will also double-check the MAF (and maybe the throttle position sensor but, it's tight thereabouts and am worried about getting it back in) later today with different meter to confirm results and report back.

And no, tach does not move during turnover.

Is there a way to test (electrically) if there is a CPS problem?

 

There are ways to test the CPS but you need an oscilloscope to actually see the readings. It isn't going to be working with .7 volts. You did check for DC volts, correct? I'm not implying you're stupid or anything like that. Honestly, some people I have talked to don't know the difference, that's all.

 

One other thing you could look for is a short in one of your 5v wires. They run all over the engine and even back the the pressure sensor in the fuel tank. With an engine rebuild, I would look somewhere in the engine bay. If you have any conduit or insulation on any part of the wiring harness, you may want to try picking it up off the engine, or whatever else it may short out on and see if it comes back to life. Also, there could be a short in one of your sensors. If you unplug them one at a time and after each one, recheck for 5v, if and when it comes back up to 5v you've found the shorted sensor. Just another thing you can try, that same 5v reference circuit runs basically all of your engine control sensors, so it could be anywhere. Good luck man, I really hope you get this thing running. You've sure waited long enough!