Ok, after a couple weeks of hearing my Blower Motor squeal on left hand turns, I've finally gotten tired of it and decided to remove it and grease the bearings if possible. Here's what I did (Attached in PDF format are the 2 pages from RAVE on this procedure):

First, I removed the Kick Panel. It has 4 plastic plugs. Three are direct pull, and 1 you screw out. The Screw one is nearest the Firewall and is larger. Start it with a stubby straight screw driver, then you can use your fingers to finish it. The three smaller ones I pried using a screw driver to start, then I used Needle Nosed Pliers to grab the shaft and pull gently out so as to not break them. I did NOT remove the Glove Box as described in RAVE.






Here is the Kick Panel out.

 

Now I'll Pull the Motor and Squirrel Cage:

First, Disconnect the Blue Power Connector on the Motor and then remove the Phillips Screw holding the wiring in place


Now, using a T-20 Driver remove the Three Screws holding the Motor in place








I normally store all my screws in the Cup Holders so I don't loose them when I'm working on interior.


To Remove the Motor and Squirrel Cage, I needed to push the LARGE (1 1/2" - 2") Wiring Loom tighter against the Firewall to clear the Squirrel Cage. You will see what I mean if it's needed on yours.

After It's out, this is what I found in mine. Some Plenum Filter Parts, and a piece of Black Tape. On the other side under the Oil Inspection Plug, I found a Bug Sleeping.

 

Pull it apart and find all the dirt! Clean it, and then Oil it. I was not able to use grease on this unit.

Next, Using a T-20 Driver, Remove the Two Screws that hold the Motor to the Plastic Housing, and then using a Flat Screwdriver, Pry out the Rubber Grommet from the Wiring at the point marked in Yellow.




At this point, you can pull the Motor from the Plastic Housing. It will be firm, but slowly it will slide out. There are three rubber bumpers in there that hold it firm.




Now, using Pliers, remove the Clip that holds the Squirrel Cage to the Motor Shaft. Place your pliers on both tongs and then squeeze. This will open the clamp so you can remove it.




VERY carefully, but VERY firmly, use two screw drivers (or a puller tool) to pry the Squirrel Cage from the Motor shaft. It's hard, but it does come off. Be CAREFUL not to break the Plastic Cage.

Now, you can see all the DIRT! Inspect the Brushes and Stator for wear. I have around 50% brushes left, and the Stator is in GREAT shape, so no need to replace.






I used CRC Electronics Cleaner on the Motor, and Simple Green on the Squirrel Cage to clean it all up. Spray PLENTY of Electronics Cleaner through the Motor until it runs clean, then be sure it dries thoroughly.


Simple Green in the Sink






Motor after being Sprayed Clean and Dried


Unfortunately, I was not able to use Grease for the bearings due to being sealed units. I'm going to use 3-in-1 oil that is specially formulated for these types of motors. It's a little heavier than normal 3-in-1.


I oiled all four sides of the bearings and spun the motor quite a while to work in the oil, then I used a rag to remove the excess oil so it did not spray into the motor or Squirrel Cage and become a dirt accumulator later.

 

Now, it's time to put it all back together.

While pulling the slack on the Wiring, press the Motor back into the Plastic Housing. Be sure to line up the Screw Holes.


Slide the Rubber Grommet back into place as seen in the previous photo




Be sure the Grommet Washers are on the Screws correctly and replace them getting them into the little shoulders correctly.


If you removed the inspection cover like I did (NOT necessary) then replace it. It just snaps back into place.




Press the Squirrel Cage back onto the Motor Shaft being sure to line up the flat spot on the shaft. Now install the Clip back on to hold the Cage in place.


Cleaned, Oiled, and Ready to Install


Now, reverse the removal process. But FIRST, reach up into the opening and pull out any debris you find. Push the LARGE Wiring Loom out of the way to clear the cage back into the opening.


Line up the Screw Holes for the Motor Housing and replace the Three T-20 Torx Screws.

Replace the Phillips Screw that holds the Motor Wiring in Place.

Plug the Blue Power Connecter back into the Wiring Harness.

Reposition The Kick Panel and PRESS all 4 Plastic Plugs into place. Be sure the Larger Screw Plug is lined up with the small stud inside. No need to screw in the larger one, it's press on, screw off.

That's it! Now, hopefully your motor will be cleaner, and quieter like mine. I'm not sure how long this will last due to Sealed Bearings, but I'll let you know if/when the squeal comes back.

 

great write up. let us know if the oiling worked.

 

Nice one...(glad you did this post, I was about to do about the same thing) I was a little worried about breaking the white plastic fan with too much pressure...now I will go back in there and "get it".
Curious, did the squeaking stop?

 

I'd still be very careful with the fan, but it did come off.

Not a peep out of it since, but it has not been long yet. Time will tell. Before, it took a long drive with heat on to make it show up. I'll be doing those in the next few days. I did drive a while last night with it on and nothing came out of it.

If something starts to squeak again, I'll be sure to post here.

 

It was tough to tell from the pictures, but are the bearings actual sealed ball bearings with rubber seals on the face? If so, you can pop the seals off and repack the bearings (I trick I've used on my moountain bike bearings) or possibly find replacement bearings for them. Maybe if someone has an old blower motor kicking around they could pull the bearings and get the dimensions. Based on the condition of your brushes it sounds like these blowers can be kept running for many miles if the bearings can be serviced.

Awesome job on the writeup. I always think I will be able to document a project but typically find that when it comes to doing the work, I barely have enough time to get it done so I never take pictures.

 

The only suggestion I can add to this sticky class write up is that the copper surfaces that the brushes make contact with are very similar to those in an alternator. The alternator shop I use takes crocus or emery cloth on a popsickle stick and holds it against the turning unit and cleans them right up. When smooth they help the brushes last longer.

 

THANK YOU! Mine just started making noise and I was just looking into doing this. Please make this a sticky. Awesome job man!!!