I'll give that a try.

 

Wishing that fuel put test point was easier to get at. I usually advise people that have the top of the intake off to do a PSI check just because it won't get any easier.

 

Yeah, it is difficult to get to, but getting the upper intake manifold off isn't too difficult. I would have done it if I had to equipment to do it. I've never had a fuel problem on any of the cars I've dealt with, so I never had a need for the equipment.

 

Got some interesting results from this test. I was expecting to get an amp reading with the key in position 2, but nothing at all. I did the same test in another car and I got like 3amps with the key at position 2.

When I tried to start the car, I did get amperage. I got about 4.55 amps while it was trying to start.

Even if it's not priming before the key is turned, it should still be able to start with the amperage I'm getting while the engine is cranking (at least that's what I think). I figure there may be something telling the pump not to prime, because it has been pumping fuel into the chamber, but it hasn't been starting.

So I'm guessing there isn't anything wrong with the fuel pump, but I'm thinking I should get some starter fluid, spray it into the intake and see if it starts then. If it does, then there is something wrong with the fuel pump, or with injectors. I removed the fuel rail of course, but I didn't remove the injectors.

I'm really thinking it's the starter. I don't think I've ever seen a starter fail to spin fast enough unless the problem was with the battery. I tried to start it with a running car boosting it, but same result (just hear the starter spin a little faster). Checked the voltage with the other car hooked up and it was at 13.2v.

I'm going to try to spray starter fluid, then I guess I have to try to see if the starter is an issue.

Any other thoughts or opinions?

 

Looked at schematic, there appears to be nothing else on that fuse. Page 9 of 152 in circuits manual. But it is normal to hear pump for a few seconds before actual crank of engine. Starter has to make 80 rpm or better, my starter draws like 300 amps with a clamp on ampmeter, battery and terminals need to be in good shape.

 

Okay. I sprayed the intake with starting fluid and still not starting. I checked all of the ignition wires to make sure everything is plugged in to the correct cylinder. I also made sure I had spark in a few of them again (I didn't recheck all 8 cylinders).

I swabbed the inside of a few cylinders again, right after trying to start it about a dozen times, and there was no moisture. Normally that would mean the fuel is being ignited, or that no fuel is being pumped, but it doesn't sound like anything is igniting, and I am pretty sure fuel is being sprayed, since I do have amperage when the fuel pump is supposed to be pumping, and I left the fuel pump on when I did the compression test and fuel came out when I relieved the pressure from the tester.

My point of concern at this point is the amount of compression. There was a complete loss of compression is cylinder 4 because of the blown head gasket, and now there is compression, but there is only 75 psi of compression. I let the tester sit for a while, and the needle didn't drop, so there doesn't seem to be a leak within the chamber. I know in some vehicles a low compression can point to a timing belt/chain problem, but not all of the cylinders have low compression, it's mainly the ones on the passenger side (number 5 had something around 100 psi when I checked it before).

So now I'm thinking there may be a problem with the left hand head, rockers, or something else. Number 4 is the lowest compression I get, but the two right next to it (#'s 2 and 6) are only getting 85 psi of compression. In my experience, these should all be at least like 120 psi of compression, but I doubt the 75 and 85 are too low to keep the car from starting at all.

I'm about to just rip the engine apart again. The pain in the butt is that the thing was running just fine before the gasket blew, and it was even running pretty well for a car with a blown gasket. There was no heating up, there was no coolant spilling into the oil, no exhaust gasses getting into the coolant, no problem starting, nothing.

This is really annoying me, since I have other cars I need to work on. Anyone have any other ideas?

 

I'm also thinking about dropping the oil pan again so I can inspect the connecting rods. Maybe even see what's happening when the engine cranks.

 

Just decided to pull the codes on the computer to see if the engine computer could shed any light on the situation. Interesting Results.

1551, 1514, and 0560, all pending.

0560 should be a voltage malfunction. I already know the battery got low from trying to turn it over so many times.

Those other two codes are IACV opening and closing coil malfunctions. The IACV was sitting in the back of the truck the entire time the engine was taken apart, and there was no problem with it before this, so I don't see how that part could have gotten damaged. I made sure the wire was seated properly when I put it back together, but I guess I can unplug it, clean out the electrical connections, clear the codes, and try to start it again. I also wonder if it could have sucked up some of the starting fluid and caused the IACV codes? I also don't see how the IACV could cause the car to be unable to start. Anyone ever have an IACV problem?

 

I A C V could cause start and die, low comp explains faster starter, wire harness good to injectors, +12 when key on, ground side supplied by E C U

 

Does that mean it could be an ECU issue? I ruled out the ECU because everything else seems to be working properly. The cluster lights, the ability to read the codes, the alarm, etc. all work just fine (everything that I can think of that the ECU controls.