you can program your remote without the bar code, there is a 6 digit code inside the remote which is part of the original bar code but you can only use this code with an Autologic BCU as far as i know. I had my 03 Discovery 2 used remote reprogrammed with the Autologic BCU.

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...uyU/edit#gid=0

The above link, which was posted in this thread (post #38), definitely works to generate valid barcodes. It is a Google spreadsheet (make sure you navigate to "Sheet1") that you enter the 6-digit code from inside the remote/fob/plip and it calculates the two barcodes you need to program a key remote using TestBook.

I visited my local LR indy shop just yesterday to have a used key I picked up from eBay successfully programmed with this info. He entered the "code1 lr tech" and "code2 lr tech" (the codes containing the "?" at the end) into TestBook and voila! It didn't appear to work at first—pressing the buttons on the plip didn't seem to do anything—but after checking TestBook, it said the key was definitely programmed/paired but not synchronized. With a few more presses of the unlock (I think) button on the plip: magic!

I'm so thrilled this worked and I can now lock/unlock my Disco II that came with a knackered door lock and no remote. Thanks to brad_ramsey, Jafir and the others who have done the legwork on this. This was a cinch with your info! No thanks to post #2 which should be deleted because it's completely wrong (perhaps it was right in 2011, but that info no longer applies in my estimation).

 

Thanks Josh. After Google updated their docs platform the tabs got re-orderded. I've cleaned it back up so that the relevant sheet is now displayed when you open the link.

 

Hi, I'm Pete. New to the Forum and Land Rovers. Owned my Disco 2 for a few months and thoroughly enjoying it. Well.. until today that is.

I bought myself a new key fob and tried using the spreadsheet to generate the barcode.

The keycode is 25F19A so I got the following barcodes:

*G25F19A25F199FF0*
*FFFFFFFFDA0E65$*

I am in the UK so used G as the fob type. I tried several times and used all three fob types of G, H and J and none of them worked. I also used the barcodes from the LR tech and they didn't work either:

*G25F19A25F199FF?*
*FFFFFFFFDA0E65?*

After a few attempts, my original key also stopped working!! So I tried to recode that with no luck.

The keycode is 41952E with the following barcodes:

*G41952E41952DFFT*
*FFFFFFFFBE6AD13*

and

*G41952E41952DFF?*
*FFFFFFFFBE6AD1?*

I then made the big mistake of locking the car with the key in the driver side lock and now the alarm goes off every time I open the door. I disconnected the battery only to learn that the alarm has its own battery. After some research, I decided to disconnect the siren in the engine compartment but its not there. The sound is coming from the rear of the car and I cant see it anywhere.

I then did some more research and tried using the EKA code. The only problem is that code written on the security information card isn't numeric. It has letters in it. I also tried the generic one I've found on the internet 1515 but that doesn't work.

I am not sure what to do next. At least if I could disconnect the alarm I could experiment but I can't even locate it.

I still dont understand how my original key stopped working as I never pressed the buttons on it when the Hawkeye asked to press the plips.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Pete

 

it wont un lock if you turn the door lock?

 

Yes, I can unlock the door but the alarm goes off when I open it

 

I finally managed to get into my car using the EKA code. Just as an aside, any letters have to be translated into numerics. I have seen a few threads about this with different conversions. The following conversions definitely work (for me anyway):

A: 10
B: 11
C: 12
D: 13
E: 14
F: 15

So if your EKA is 6EEC, then your numeric code is:

6 14 14 12

A bit off-topic I know but I thought I'd put that there for any other people.

Anyway, I tried using my Hawkeye again to program my original key and then it tells me that 5 plips have already been programmed. Does anyone know how to delete existing plips? I know you can do it with a Nanocom.

Thanks,
Pete

 

Just to add more to this topic, I found another website where a BMW guy reverse engineered these remote codes too. (BMW, Mini, and Land Rover of similar years use the same type of remotes, so the system is very similar). I figured I would post what he posted just for comparison.

 

FYI this pic I just posted seems to have some errors in it. It does not correctly handle codes ending in 0, in my opinion. Brad's work does not have those errors, and handles it correctly.

I've spent a few minutes scouring google images looking for remote codes, and every code I found was correctly generated by Brad's document.

I did notice a couple of extra prefixes not mentioned, specifically N and M, but the spreadsheet handles them anyway, and there is some indication that they might not even be important. The only thing I found that had an M prefix was a suspension remote.

 

Hi,
Good evening,
I have purchased two Land Rover Discovery II keys and just wish to confirm the very helpful code supplied by Brad.
I enter my 6 digit code into the boxes.
If using Hawk eye then Code1 & Code 2 are used ?

If using test book "dealer tool" then Code 1 & 2 LR Tech is used ?

Many thanks if you could confirm.
Great help reading through these posts.