Hi again!

just thinking that by definition, this motor model must work because is manufactured for doors actuators. Then, a door actuator motor must work in the two directions, to lock and unlock the doors and the ECU is the one which switches the polarity to lock and unlock.

However, will test the turning direction by switching the polarity as soon as I can.

 

Good info! I've got a rear hatch actuator that is no longer working and I have the panel off at them moment. Too much other stuff to do to source and rebuild the actuator, but if anyone has a working rear hatch unit I'm in the market.

 

I have a 02 Disco II and just did this repair on both my cargo door and rear PS door using the 20mm Long shaft motors from eBay "20mm Long Shaft car door lock actuator motor Mabuchi" and here is what I've learned:
1. For the rear passenger doors, even though you can probably get away w/ not fully removing the window frame and glass, do it anyway. (it's really not a big deal) This way if your re-assembly is a bit off, or the latches bind due to under lubrication on reassembly(my problem) then getting the door open again to fix it is as simple as popping the outer cover of the Actuator off w/ a long screwdriver, and manually pressing down on the latch release praw(not the latch linkage that the inner or outer handle moves). looking down the window frame slot the latch praw is behind and slightly above the linkage. this pops the door right open.
2.WD40 and lithium grease is your friend.
3. have a butane torch handy to heat up the gear and old shaft to pull the gear off the old motor (a table vice come in real handy here)
4. the 20mm Mabuchi motors fit like a champ; however, they actually need to be 28mm shafts as using just the 20mm motors don't reach the other side of the gear into the gear shaft cradle and so, don't provide enough resistance on the unlock direction thereby forcing the lock to cycle from unlock to lock to unlock...usually 5 times so you end up with intermittently unlocked doors...a real pain. my solution was to use a Dermal tool and a cutoff wheel to trim a short length off of the shaft of one of the old motors (8-10mm or about 3/8"), and press it into the top of the gear. once cooled off use the cutoff wheel again to attain to final OA shaft length of 28mm or ~1.1045" (calipers help here) when reassembling the actuator assembly don't fully tighten the black T20 star bolt attaching the manual latch linkage to the outer housing. this caused my manual functionality to seize and stop working. Tighten it, then back it of an 8th of a turn.
Otherwise this is a fairly easy repair...especially after the 2nd one
Hope this helps.

My list of necessary tools to do this job:

1 Phillips head , med head and shaft length
1 set panel popper, get some cheap ones from Harber Freight
1 1/4" drive socket set w/ extensions (needed for window glass to regulator removal)
T20 and T25 Star drive heads
a nail set punch and a hammer (and safety glasses!!!)
1 table vice to aid in gear removal and press on
1 butane torch for above
1 Dremel tool w/ cut off wheels to cut into plastic actuator body, and shaft extension fix
WD40 & white lithium grease (WD good for short term saturation, lithium grease for long term lubrication and water resistance)
patience
camera for process documentation I take pics every 2nd or 3rd step just in case
Best of luck!!





Cargo door actuator/Latch assembly Before



PS rear door Actuator/Latch assembly Before (outer cover on)



20mm long shaft Mabuchi motor showing superlock gear attached (before shaft extension)



PS rear door latch showing cover Dremaled off<br/>and the new lock motor installed demonstrating inadequate shaft length

 

Very useful info for the future, I've had two actuators die on me now, drivers side front and drivers side rear both at great 'stealership' expense.